How to Dismount from a Bicycle

And off it—in cyclocross, mounting and dismounting smoothly and quickly are essential skills.

In terms of having fun while building fitness, it’s tough to beat spending the autumn kneedeep in the mud of your local cyclocross scene. But before you compete, try to master the bike dismount and remount. “There’s nothing more discouraging than losing time because you can’t comfortably get off and back onto the saddle,” says Adam Myerson, a professional ‘cross racer and owner of Cycle-Smart Coaching. The key to speedy transitions, says Myerson, is conserving your forward momentum. Here’s how to do it.

Bike Barriers
[image mediaId=”7c7cc82e-6692-4685-b05b-e1bbbbfa8a8a” align=”center” size=”medium” caption=”” expand=”” crop=”original”][/image]Don’t lift your bike so that your saddle goes into your armpit; you may hit the barrier or trip over your pedals. Instead, place your right hand palm-down on the top tube and take Myerson’s advice: “Keep your elbow between you and your bike,” he says. “This helps to move the bike a little farther away from your body so you can lift it to shoulder height.”

Carry The Weight
[image mediaId=”b2a2d815-f96e-4e1a-bc0b-d725e4e530f4″ align=”center” size=”medium” caption=”” expand=”” crop=”original”][/image]It’s easier and faster to shoulder your bike for uphill runs, stairs and muddy sections. As you dismount, instead of grabbing the top tube, reach through the frame and grasp the down tube near the bottle-cage area. Lift the front of the top tube onto your right shoulder. Then wrap your right arm around the down tube and grab the left drop of your handlebar with your right hand to hold the bike securely.

On Your Left
[image mediaId=”2309a5f7-19e4-4c2f-8b51-fef4d143e0a4″ align=”center” size=”medium” caption=”” expand=”” crop=”original”][/image]”You want to run onto your bike the way a track hurdler steps over a hurdle,” Myerson says. “This keeps your momentum moving forward.” The remount starts with both hands on the tops or hoods of the handlebar. Running on the left side of the bike, look forward and keep your hips in the area between the cranks and saddle. Push off your left foot, open your hips to the right and drive your right knee forward over the saddle. “Like the trailing leg of a hurdler, catch the saddle with the inside of your right thigh,” Myerson says. Then bring your right foot down onto the pedal. Twist your hips closed and center yourself on the saddle.

Remount
[image mediaId=”208351b0-48e3-44ac-ac61-74b01d76279c” align=”center” size=”medium” caption=”” expand=”” crop=”original”][/image]Dismount on the left side of your bike to protect your legs from your drivetrain. As you coast toward the barrier, unclip your left foot and shift your weight onto your left instep. When you’re ready to dismount, unclip and swing your right leg around the back of the bike and move your right hand to the top tube about 6 inches in front of the seatpost. Coasting with your right foot behind the left, hit the ground with your right. Begin running with the left.

LinkBack

• LinkBack URL
• About LinkBacks

Tube tire on tubeless rim difficult dismount

Hello, a few months ago I installed a WTB 57-622 TRAIL BOSS (29 X 2.4) tube tire on a Frequencey i25 tubeless ready rim 622 x 25c. It originally came with Nano tires.
I didnt think too much about it but I had a flat a few days ago and could not get that tire off. I had to use a vise to squeeze the tire and small screw drivers to break the bead off the rim. Not a good experience and really fortunate that it was at home.
I did use baby power to smooth in the tube install and dish w/ water mixture to seat the tire when I installed to minimize side to side tire wobble and bounce. Did that about 3 times and every time increase tire pressure to get that part right. It was perfect.
I am wondering if maybe the baby power and or dish detergent mixture somewhat glued the bead to the rim. As for proper tire and rim size: I think I got that part correct. Any ideas? I certainly am not putting on the tire again. Best I purchase a tubeless tire to put on that tube less rim. However I am still using tubes. Always something new to learn here. Thanks.

LinkBack

• LinkBack URL
• About LinkBacks

Mounting & dismounting the bike.

OK, this is about different ways to get on your bike.

When I was a kid I always mounted my bike by putting my left foot on the pedal, then pushing the bike in motion with the right foot. Then, as the bike was rolling and I was riding it from the side, I would simply swing my right leg over the saddle and away I went.

I NEVER see anyone get on a bike this way anymore. I don’t have cycling shoes. Is it because it can’t be done in shoes?

Same with dismounting. I always (still today) dismount by swinging my right leg over the saddle and coasting on the side of the bike on my left foot until it comes to a stop or I apply the brake.

Anyone else do this?

Thanks in advance for the replies,

Most roadies don’t do it that way. With either clipless pedals or clips and straps, it’s easier, and safer, to be standing over the top tube of the bike before you start moving. So you swing a leg over while standing, then attach one foot, then start moving, then attach the other foot. Stopping is the reverse: slow, disconnect one foot, stop, put foot on ground, disconnect other foot.

The cyclocross dismount is the closest thing to your kid-style stop.

In road shoes with cleats the kid-start is really hard to do. But if I’m in my sneakers just goofin around, I do it all the time. And off road it can be useful to do.

I do the kid stop in road shoes a lot, sometimes it’s easier.

LinkBack

• LinkBack URL
• About LinkBacks

How to dismount off bike with clipless?

So I recently got my bike and upgraded the platforms to clipless. I finally got the mounting on down after alot of falls but im still having trouble dismounting with 1 foot while the other is still clipped in when coming to a complete stop.

So this is how it usually goes down till I fall (Ive only successfully done this once but ALMOST lost my balance in the process):

I am about to stop, and clip out my right foot only (It just feels better than using my left foot). I lean to the right so I can rest my foot on the ground while at the same time my left foot is still attached to the bike for a quick easy to start mount again on the bike.

This is where the problem comes in:
So I lean right but my seat is too high (I was fitted precisely for this bike) so I have to lean forward to get off the seat so my leg can reach the ground but in doing so I put pressure on the right side of the crank where I am still clipped in and topple over.

Ive tried this with both feet and I still end up falling. How do I do this?

Why do you need to get off the seat before your right foot hits the ground? Just trying to think if I do this but at this point it is so automatic I don’t even think about. I just shift my weight over as I come to a stop and don’t fall. The only advice I can give you is keep practicing.

You’re able to start. But you don’t start while seated. So how do you manage that without falling over?
How do you manage to stop when riding platforms? The dismount is exactly the same. You have to put a foot down.

I don’t understand how you can put so much weight on your crank to overcome the weight imbalance from leaning to the right.

FYI, nobody can (should) reach the ground while seated.

I’ve never though about this until your post. When rolling to a stop, apply brakes, stand on left pedal (positioned at 9 o’clock) which lifts your bum off the saddle as the pedal goes down. Drop down in front of the saddle and place right foot on ground (while leaning bike to right of course). Ratchet the left pedal back up to 9 o’clock. When you’re ready to set off, stand on left pedal which lifts your bum in the air as the pedal goes down (and jets you off down the road.) Place it on saddle. Clip right foot in. Pedal a few revs without clipping in if needed to get thru the intersection. I’ll have to go try this to see if this is what I really do.

At no time should you be sitting on the saddle with the right foot (toe?) on the ground.

i never thought this was so hard to pull off. like others have posted, just do the opposite of starting from a stop. unless you’ve got HUGE feet you need to be off the saddle to touch the ground.
unclip your (right) foot.
weight on left foot, slide off saddle.
stop.
put foot down.
it’s not that hard, little kids and old people do it all the time.

The slightly obsessive (but totally doable) guide to making your bike shine.

If you’ve come back from a particularly muddy ride on the trails, or you’re looking to ride your bike indoors, you know you’ll need to give it a good scrub. But even if your bike isn’t completely caked in mud and dirt, it still needs some TLC every so often. We recommend cleaning your road bike monthly (or every 20 to 25 rides) and a mountain or ’cross bike more often.

If you need some guidance, watch the following video for a demo on how to properly clean your bike, and keep reading for a few tips and tricks to make the cleaning process less of a hassle.

You’ll need these everyday, household items to clean your bike:

Optional, but Recommended Tools:

DO
• Recycle your dish sponges. You’ll get another couple of months out of them on bike-wash duty.
• Floss with a clean rag between chainrings, cogs, and other hard-to-reach places.
• Be committed. A clean bike rides better and lasts longer.

DON’T
• Mix your buckets, tools, and rags. You don’t want to cover your frame with drivetrain grease.
• Use an abrasive sponge or brush on your frame.
• Blast your bike with a high-pressure hose. Water will get into and degrade your bearings.

Step 1:
Fill two clean buckets with water and a generous squirt of dish soap. Lay out your brushes, sponges, and rags.

Step 2:
Place your bike in a workstand (here’s our picks for some of the best)—this brings it up off the ground and makes all the nooks and crannies easier to reach. No workstand? Try hooking the nose of your saddle over a taut clothesline.

Step 3:
Next, remove your wheels. You can insert a chain keeper—a guide for your chain when the cassette is removed—to keep tension on the drivetrain. It’s fine to skip this step if you don’t want to spring for the tool, but using one prevents the chain from folding up on itself or falling off the bike when you try to work on it. Trust us, it’s annoying.

Step 1: Chain
Use a degreaser and turn the cranks backward so that it gets on every link. After about five to 10 minutes, rinse with a gentle stream of water from the hose. If the chain is still grimy, apply small drops of dish soap like you would a lube, grip the chain in the rough side of your sponge, then turn the cranks for several rotations. Rinse.

Step 2: Drivetrain
Dip a stiff-bristled brush into one of your pre-filled buckets and scrub the chainrings. We recommend using a bottle brush or toothbrush to get into crevices around the teeth, pulleys, and rings. Then rinse with a gentle stream of water and repeat if you still see any lingering crud. Next, grab your rear wheel and drip dish soap onto the cassette, scrub, then rinse. Repeat if necessary.

Step 3: Frame
Dip a clean, soft sponge into your second (fresh) bucket. Soap up the frame, working your way from front to back, then rinse. If you have caliper brakes, clean the pads with the abrasive side of the sponge.

Step 4: Wheels
We recommend using softer, bigger brushes for tires and rims so you can get into every nook and cranny with minimal effort. Dunk your brush into the bucket you used for your frame. Starting at the valve, scrub all the way around the wheel, hit the spokes and hub, then flip the wheel to get the opposite side. Repeat on the other wheel, then rinse. (If you have disc brakes, use the soft side of a clean sponge with soap and water on rotors.)

Reattach the wheels and spin the cranks to make sure the drivetrain runs smoothly. Wipe everything down with a dry, clean cloth or let it air-dry in the sun. Lube your chain.

Age influences the way a cyclist (dis-)mounts a bicycle.

Female cyclists prefer different strategies to dismount a bicycle compared to males.

Cyclists require a cycling velocity of at least 5 km/h to start harmonic cycling.

Dismounting is not the same as reversed mounting and should be analysed separately.

(Dis)mounting thigh angular velocity and acceleration relate to age and gender.

Abstract

In the Netherlands, each year 12,000 older cyclists require medical attention due to a single-bicycle accident where no other party is directly involved. Most of these accidents occur at low cycling velocities and 20% occur during (dis)mounting the bicycle. Little is known about the strategies and corresponding kinematics of (dis)mounting. This study aims to classify (dis)mounting strategies of young and older cyclists and assess corresponding kinematics.

Thirteen young (18–40 years) and 33 older (65–90 years) cyclists, 13 with and 20 without a bi-cycle fall-history, participated. They were asked to mount the bicycle, cycle normally, stop and wait, continue cycling and dismount the bicycle at a certain point. Bicycle and cyclist motions were recorded with 10 Inertial Measurement Units and 2 video cameras. Kinematic parameters during the (dis)mounting period were assessed. First, a qualitative analysis of the different methods of (dis)mounting and ‘waiting’ was made from the videos. Second, a quantitative assessment of the relationships between age, fall-history, gender and the kinematic parameters during (dis)mounting and waiting were studied.

We identified 2 mounting, 3 dismounting and 2 waiting categories, which each consisted of 2 or 3 sub-types based on timing to get on or off saddle and swing leg through frame or over saddle. The categories can mainly be distinguished by the first foot that is lifted on or off the pedal. Older cyclists and females prefer other strategies compared to young cyclists and males, respectively. E.g. during mounting, 70% of the young cyclists lift their inside foot, the foot closest to the bicycle, and place it on the pedal, while 80% of the older cyclists lift their outside foot and put it on the pedal and start pushing off with their inside foot from the ground one or more times. Furthermore, bicycle and cyclist kinematics could be related to age, fall-history and gender. Higher thigh angular velocities and accelerations (around mediolateral axis) were found for older cyclists and females compared to young cyclists and males, respectively. These differences, among others, may explain the high injury risk for older cyclists and females in single-bicycle accidents.

Graphical abstract

1. Download : Download high-res image (352KB)
2. Download : Download full-size image

Previous article in issue
Next article in issue

We care about our fellow riders and customers like we do our family. Our HOG Chapter Safety Director often shares safety tips to ensure our friends and family are safe out on the road. This month, we focus on the best and proper ways to mount and dismount a motorcycle when a passenger is accompanying you. Whether your passenger is a first-time motorcycle rider or a seasoned rider, read below for some best practice tips for getting on and off a motorcycle.

Introduction: We have researched varying methods to accomplish this. The most popular seems to utilize left side mounting and dismounting with bike in vertical position.

Mounting A Motorcycle with a Passenger

Rider mounts first, with bike in vertical position, handlebars straight, bike in neutral, front brake applied and both feet firmly planted on the ground. Once set, have passenger put hands on your shoulders from the left side, place left foot on the floorboard or peg, lift themselves up, and slide their leg over the back seat and sit down with both feet on the boards.

Alternate Method for Mounting Motorcycle

Another method is to have bike resting on kickstand, this distributes weight onto kick stand and not onto rider’s legs.

Con: Rider will need to lift bike into vertical position with both people mounted. Similar mounting process as described before, rider first then passenger, once both mounted rider lifts bike into vertical position then raises kick stand.

Tip: To make this lift easier try turning handlebars to the far right before lifting bike.

Dismounting A Motorcycle with a Passenger

Dismount is in reverse passenger first, then rider, remember to have bike resting on kick stand before anyone dismounting. This method gives you the best control of the bike, and avoids nasty accidents.

Tip: Try moving handlebars to the far left this may assist passenger in their dismount.

Tip: Before passenger mount or dismount rider should lean up toward tank to allow more space for passenger.

If passenger may have mobility concerns, with the kickstand down method try having passenger mount first onto front seat position then move to back position, then rider would mount from left side sliding leg thru and across seat.

Alternate Passenger Dismount Method

Another method is to mount from the right side (seen described as cop style) pro: to this rider or passenger are not exposed to oncoming traffic during mount or dismount. Con: exhaust pipes usually on right side and right mount or dismount movement could upset bike while on kickstand.

Closing Thoughts

With any of these methods, the passenger should always communicate with the rider before mounting or dismounting by verbal communication or a tap on the shoulder to ensure the rider is in their ready position.

I WANTED TO WISH ALL OF YOU A SAFE AND ADVENTUROUS 2019 RIDING SEASON.

Whether it’s mud, barriers or a wipeout in the sand, there are plenty of times when you’ll need to dismount and remount your cyclocross bike. But doing it quickly, without losing momentum and simultaneously staying safe takes time and plenty of practice to master.

Use these tips to help you avoid common mistakes and perfect this crucial technique before your next cyclocross event.

On any cyclocross course there are sections requiring you to run with your bike. Instead of coming to a complete stop to unclip and get off your bike, the flying dismount is a unique cyclocross skill that helps you hit the ground running and maintain your speed.

When practicing this technique, start off at a slow speed (under 10mph) in a grassy area that’s safe. Once you get better at the technique, you can begin practicing at higher speeds. Here’s what you need to do to dismount:

• With your hands on the brake hoods, unclip your dominant leg (the right leg for most people) and swing it around the backside of the saddle.
• As you swing your leg, lean the bike away from you to balance your weight shifting to one side of the bike.
• At the end of the leg swing, the right foot ends up directly behind your left foot.
• With the bike leaning against your hip, move your right hand from the handlebar to the top tube of the bike.
• Keeping the hand on the top tube helps you take the weight off of your left foot so you can unclip.
• Move the right foot outside of your left foot as you twist to unclip. Hit the ground with your right foot first, then move into your stride by letting your left foot hit the ground.

Depending on the obstacle, you may have to carry or run with your bike for some distance. Once you’re in the clear and you’ve determined it’s safe and faster to get back on the bike, a remount will be needed. But unlike other cycling disciplines, cyclocross uses a running remount to make getting back up to speed as quick and easy as possible.

Here’s how to complete the running remount:

• With both hands on the brake hoods while you run next to your bike, remount your bike on the same side you dismounted from.
• As you begin the remounting motion, step forward with the left foot and open your hips so that they are facing the bike.
• With the left foot planted, push the bike until the saddle is next to your hips.
• Jump so the right inner thigh reaches the saddle.
• As your thigh gets to the saddle, continue to move up and over until your backside is on the saddle.
• Look down briefly and get your right foot into the pedal first. Stomp down to keep the bike moving forward.
• Once your right foot is in, clip in the left side and pedal to get your momentum going until you reach the next obstacle.

Of the two techniques, most beginners struggle more with the remount. As you practice, be aware of these common mistakes and attempt to correct your technique as much as possible. This makes you more efficient at getting back on your bike, and the more speed you can maintain during the transition the easier it will be to start pedaling again.

• Be decisive: One of the most common mistakes is not committing to the jump. Stutter stepping or even hopping several times before you attempt to jump over the saddle with the right leg often leads to another mistake and causes you to miss the remount. Instead, practice being decisive in a safe environment first. Start your remounts at a walking speed, and as you gain comfort, speed up the pace. Just remember, whatever pace you choose, be decisive when you plant your left foot and go for it on the first attempt.
• Don’t remount too soon: Attempting to remount when you’re still in the mud or another surface that will be difficult to pedal in can cause you to take a spill. Knowing the best time to remount comes with experience, so watch other riders when trying to decide the right time to remount. If you see other cyclists getting back on the bike and struggling to pedal, continue to run until the terrain is more manageable. If everyone is remounting and riding away smoothly up ahead, then use that cue to attempt your remount.
• Don’t over jump the saddle: When you jump for the saddle, it’s really just a hop. The right leg slides over the saddle, while the left foot doesn’t actually lift that high off the ground. Jump just enough to get the inside of your right thigh on the saddle and get your right leg over. If you overshoot it, the bike leans in the direction you’re jumping, making you more likely to lose your balance. Practice your jump at a slow speed to get a feel for how high you need to jump and speed up once you’re comfortable.

Joanne Corsano

New Member

• Oct 22, 2020

antboy

Well-Known Member

• Oct 22, 2020

Assuming that your seat is at the right height, and you have the right sized bike for your height.

If you can be on tippy-toes when stopped, adding a dropper seat post would probably help dismounting. That way as you come to a stop you can drop the seat post and more easily plant both feet on the ground. Even an an inch or two can make a difference.

David Berry

Well-Known Member

• Oct 22, 2020

My ‘technique’ involves the following:

1. Use my dropper post to lower the saddle by 75 mm.
   Comment: Choose a dropper post with the smallest range (usually 75 mm) to avoid being sent far too high in the air when it is in the ‘up’ position.
2. Always mount/dismount from the same side. For me this is the left.
   Comment: This makes it easy to put my left foot down on the kerb at traffic lights; not so easy for those living in countries with ‘curbs’.
3. I stop with my right foot high and left foot low.
   Comment: Right foot at one o’clock (slightly forward) for easy take-off.
4. At the very last moment before stopping I apply the front brake hard so that I come straight off the saddle.
   Comment: Note the underlined words.

… David

I have a certain amount of trepidation about learning to mount/dismount my bike. This is one area that is quite different from the other disciplines of cycling used in ‘cross. What steps did you take (or planning on taking) to learn this new skill?

My plan is to go to my local park and try everything at slow speeds. Here are a few videos I’ve found that make it look easy:

Replies to This Discussion

One thing that helped me when I was first learning: watching the top racers.

I’d find a good vantage point near a set of barriers. At race pace, it can be hard to tell what is going on; many times they are moving so fast and their actions are so fluid. I would bring my digital camera with me and take short movies. When I got home I’d watch these movies on my computer in slow motion to go over their movements to get a better sense of what was going on — who was going “foot-in,” who was unclipping both feet before getting to the barriers?

Then practice, practice.

Permalink Reply by CrankyMonkey on April 12, 2008 at 1:24pm

I did find one suggestion on VeloNews that suggest unclipping both feet and then riding the instep (foot-out). How common is that? Too me it seems like the pitfall would be under wet conditions you could slip off. But I guess if you didn’t unclip properly you would end up all tangled up with the bike on top of you.

I need to finish up my bike and hit the park and trails to practice.

Permalink Reply by Josh on April 12, 2008 at 9:12pm

Permalink Reply by Tire Snob on April 12, 2008 at 9:18pm

Permalink Reply by Cincicycles on April 13, 2008 at 7:03pm

Permalink Reply by Mr. President on April 15, 2008 at 9:59am

Permalink Reply by Josh on April 16, 2008 at 2:33pm

Permalink Reply by Henry on April 24, 2008 at 5:22pm

Watching mounts/dismounts in slow motion is a good way to study the technique.
Here is how the two former World Cyclocross Champions (Pontoni and Vervecken) do it:

And, for a good measure, here is the “south paw” dismount of Ben Jacques-Maynes:

Permalink Reply by Somnambulant on April 22, 2008 at 6:09pm

I think the first time I full committed myself to a flying remount was in my first race. I could never work up the courage to try it without any race-speed pressure. I can’t say I have had any mishaps, but I can say that it’s a lot easier than I expected. In fact, I really learned to love a well designed barrier section as I found it easy to make up time in those spots.

My advice: don’t do it, or practice doing it, it baggies. Too much potential for seat+crotch snagging. Trust me on this one. *wince*

To me the trick isn’t getting back on the saddle, it’s keeping your momentum going once you’re on there. Don’t futz too much with getting clipped in right away, but be sure to keep pedaling! On muddy courses there’s the possibility of having to knock your shoe against your crank/frame/pedal to clear the cleat as well, but I’m getting ahead of myself. 🙂

Permalink Reply by FELTSLAVE on April 23, 2008 at 11:30am

Permalink Reply by Adam on May 10, 2008 at 10:23pm

Permalink Reply by GeWilli on April 24, 2008 at 9:36am

doing thousands of them at walking pace before going to a jogging pace and doing thousands at jogging pace before going to racing pace is critical.

But even more critical than that is doing it right.

All that effort if done with poor technique is wasted and forms bad habits.

I can’t say it enough: GET SOMEONE TO HELP. have a pro or veteran watch you and give you pointers the first time.

Only watching someone do it on videos is sort of like being good in bed after only watching pornos. it don’t translate well.

Get someone to show you in person how before you start doing the thousands of stuff.

I like to do 50-100 per session. The grass shoulder along a bike path is great. DO NOT do them on pavement.

There are really only three ways to get off, and variations of them. It is BEST to master all of them. Each is helpful in certain situations. If you only watch the current pros you’ll generally just see one form because of how the barriers are generally being placed in most UCI races.

If you race as fast and on courses identical to them – well follow that.
Buy some of Henry’s videos if you are a new england/MAC/NY racer and see how those pros get on and off the bike on courses you are more likely to see:
henry’s page is:

Practice will help. But it is still a bike race. Getting on and off the bike is a very short part of the event. You still have to be able to pedal the damn bike 😀

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• 3
• Next ›
• Page

Buttons that pedestrians or cyclists are forced to push in order for a computer program – programmed by a car-centric engineer – to grant them authorisation to cross a street in their city have to be among the most archaeic remnants of a century of city planning that caters only to the automobile.

And that was a long sentence. Sorry.

I wish for their immediate demise. The only thing goofier is the pedestrian flags in some American cities. Talk about ignoring the bull. Not to mention engineering instead of designing our cities.

One of the things I like most about cycling in Copenhagen is that I don’t have to push any of these buttons. There have been a few but they tend to get removed and thank goodness for that.

Here’s one from the archives:

(Although now I’ll have to check if it’s still there. ) Still, they are a rarity here and I’ve only seen them at t-intersections.

So why not signage like the graphic up top? If we’re going to level the playing field – which we should – after this centuria horribilis. Let this sign be posted in densely-populated urban centres, near schools and kindergartens and basically anywhere we’re keen to reestablish liveable cities.

More wacky buttons from around the world:

Ljubljana, Slovenia & Washington DC & Sao Paulo

Berlin & Halifax, Canada

Ottawa & Amsterdam