How to grease trailer bearings

Whether a trailer is pulling horses or a boat, the safety of the cargo inside depends on proper maintenance of the trailer’s wheel bearings. Greasing the bearings must be done at regular intervals for proper load distribution and mechanical integrity of the wheels. Improperly maintained wheel bearings can cause wheels to detach without warning and result in damage to the trailer, its cargo, and perhaps people.

Function

Wheel bearings are a critical part of the trailer body. They help support the trailer’s weight and keep the wheels turning on the axle. Properly maintained bearings allow the wheel to spin freely, without putting unnecessary friction on the trailer axle. A wheel bearing that has been neglected eventually leaks and deteriorates. Dirt and other foreign objects can contaminate the bearings, cause breakdown of the assembly and possibly enable the wheel to detach from the axle.

Time Frame

Wheel bearing maintenance frequency depends on the trailer type, wheel size, and average load weight. Some manufacturers recommend inspecting and greasing an RV’s wheel bearings once every season, or at least every 10,000 miles. But boat trailers with small wheels require re-packing every 2,000 miles. Generally, the smaller the tire, the faster the wheels spin, which puts stress on the bearings. Frequency can also be determined by considering how the trailer is used and where it has traveled.

Considerations

In 2008, the cost of having this job performed by a professional mechanic was approximately $125 per axle, based on average pricing obtained from three different RV repair shops in southern California. However, trailer owners who attempt this job at home will spend less than $100 in parts. The procedure calls for basic mechanical aptitude, and only requires high-temperature grease, rags, a trailer wheel jack, a torque wrench and a hammer. A bearing packer makes the job cleaner but is not necessary.

Identification

Wheel bearing design has remained unchanged over the last 50 years, and greasing them is simple. But before you attempt this at home, it is a good idea to have a service manual for your trailer with instructions for the procedure. The wheels must be properly torqued. Obtain a proper trailer jack, and block all tires on the opposite side to ensure your safety while underneath the trailer.

Warning

If your trailer has hauled excessively heavy loads or has been driven off-road or towed through water that covered the axles, it is a good idea to perform this maintenance. Also, some manufacturers forget to grease the wheel bearings prior to delivery to the dealer. To test new trailer wheel bearings for excessive friction, touch the tire after it has been in use. A hot tire surface could indicate improper lubrication.

This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us.

RV Expeditioners may collect a share of sales or other compensation from the links on this page. This comes at no additional cost to you, and all the prices and availability are accurate at the time of publishing.

Summer is here, which means that everyone is getting their travel trailers ready for everything from boating, work, and lawn care to summer road trips and family vacations. One thing that is important in going to this season is making sure that your travel trailer is prepped for hitting the road.

Today, we are going to take a look at greasing your travel trailer wheel bearings, why it’s important, and how often you should be lubricating your bearings.

Why Do You Need to Grease Your Wheel Bearings?

This is a question that we get quite a bit. What’s important to keep in mind is that for the longevity and performance of your trailer, you need to be greasing your wheel bearings periodically. If you do not, this can inevitably lead to your trailer breaking down prematurely, costing you more in time, money, and maintenance in the future. Greasing your wheel bearings regularly will make sure that you get a long, functional life out of your travel trailer.

If your travel trailer stays parked for long periods of time, condensation can start to build up inside of your travel trailer’s wheel bearings. With enough condensation for a long enough period of time and your bearings will begin to rust. Rust increases friction and prevents the bearing from doing its job properly. This can lead to the total failure of your bearing, and leave you stuck on the side of the road with a blown-out trailer.

When to Grease Your Bearings?

The maintenance of the wheel bearing usually depends on the kind of trailer you are using. You also have to consider:

The average load weight.

Typically, you should plan on performing maintenance on your bearings and greasing them at least once per year. However, there are other considerations that will affect the frequency you should plan on greasing the wheel bearings on your travel trailer. How often you are hauling and the size of your wheels are all going to affect the frequency at which you clean and grease your bearings.

The Time Frame for Greasing Your Travel Trailer Bearings

The frequency at which you clean and grease your wheel bearings depends on the wheel size, type of trailer you have and the average weight of the loads you are carrying. Some manufacturers recommend inspecting and greasing an RV’s wheel bearings once during every season. Another rule of thumb is that you should grease them, at minimum, every 10,000 miles. On the other hand, boat trailers with small wheels require repacking every 2,000 miles. Generally, the smaller the tire, the faster the wheels spin, which puts more relative stress on the bearings than larger tires would. The frequency at which you grease your bearings can also be determined by how the trailer is used, how often it is used, and where it will be traveling in terms of distance, temperature, and geography.

Considerations

In 2008, the cost of having this job performed by a professional mechanic was approximately $125 per axle, based on average pricing obtained from three different RV repair shops in southern California.

However, this maintenance is significantly less expensive if you want to do it on your own. Trailer owners who attempt this job at home will spend less than $100 in parts. The procedure calls for basic mechanical aptitude, and only requires high-temperature grease, rags, a trailer wheel jack, a torque wrench and a hammer. A bearing packer makes the job cleaner but is not necessary for the job.

Identification

Wheel bearing design has been the same for over 50 years, and greasing them is a simple process. Keep in mind that before you attempt this at home, it is a good idea to have a service manual for your trailer that includes instructions for the procedure. The wheels must be properly torqued as well. Obtain a proper trailer jack, and block all tires on the opposite side to ensure you are safe while underneath the trailer.

Warning

You should perform this type of maintenance if you have hauled very heavy loads or have been driving with your trailer off-road. If you have towed your travel trailer through water that covered the axles, you should check your wheels, bearings and perform maintenance.

Some manufacturers forget to grease the wheel bearings prior to delivery to the dealer. You can test the new trailer wheel bearings for excessive friction. All you need to do is touch the tire after it has been in use. If you feel that the surface of the tire is hot, that could indicate inadequate improper lubrication.

Conclusion

You should never use two different kinds of grease thickeners together, at the same time. Do not mix these together. Axles use a thickener that is made of a lithium complex. When you mix the grease with polyuria soap, clay, calcium, or barium, you may create some adverse effects. The grease can actually harden or separate. It can also become acidic, thereby, posing damage and other hazards to your bearings.

RVers who haul towable trailers should always know when and how to repack their trailer wheel bearings, since doing it at home can save hundreds of dollars at the shop.

Most RV repair shops recommend repacking trailer wheel bearings annually.

Without routine maintenance of your trailer wheel bearings, here’s the progression you’ll likely experience:

1. condensation occurs if wheels aren’t ‘rolled’ for long periods of time
2. the condensation causes rust to form inside the trailer wheel bearing
3. rust particulates can scratch surfaces inside the bearing housing
4. scratches lead to friction and eventual bearing failure

How to Repack Your Own Wheel Bearings

Even if you’re not a gifted mechanic you can still pack your own trailer wheel bearings by following this guide.

Parts List to Repack Trailer Wheel Bearings:

• Trailer jack
• The exact torquing amount for reassembling your trailer wheels (from manual or manufacturer)
• High-temperature lithium or bentone-based wheel bearing grease.
• Photos of your disassembled trailer wheel and bearings (so you can put it back together in reverse).
• New grease seals and if applicable, cotter pins for each wheel
• Paper towels
• Hammer and chisel
• Grease gun or wheel bearing packer

Step 1:

Before you begin this project, always consult your trailer’s service manual or contact the manufacturer to know how tightly you should torque your trailer wheels during re-installation.

Without the correct number, your axle will be be subject to excessive wear and your wheels could overheat or even fall off if you torque them too little or too much.

Step 2:

Next, use your trailer wheel chocks to lock tires on the opposite side of where you’ll be working, then put your wheel jack in place and slowly lift the trailer until the wheel is just off the ground.

Set your parts and cleaning materials down next to the wheel that’s being removed.

Step 3:

Carefully remove the wheel hub’s dust cap with a chisel and hammer, then firmly pull on the hub to expose a six-sided castellated nut.

You can unscrew the nut by removing the castellated tab that holds it in place (some trailer wheels will have a non-reusable cotter pin, or reusable lock washer or cage instead).

Don’t forget to start taking photos of the process so you’ll know how to put everything back in proper order.

Step 4:

Grasp the wheel and gently spin it to loosen the outer bearing; this will allow you to remove the wheel and hub from the trailer axle spindle.

Take the wheel and lay it down down on a towel, making sure that the wheel and hub are positioned inner side down.

Use this opportunity to inspect your trailer brakes and axle spindle by looking for excess wear and tear.

Step 5:

Take your chisel and gently tap on the inner bearing with a hammer to remove the wheel’s grease seal.

Carefully remove the inner wheel bearings, the washer and outer wheel bearings and place everything on a clean towel next to your job site.

Remember to keep the bearing clean – any dirt that gets trapped in the repacked bearing can cause damage over time.

Step 6:

Roll the bearings in a clean paper towel to eliminate old grease.

As you clean, roll the bearings in your hand and examine their surfaces carefully to pinpoint any damaged or worn-out areas (a magnifying glass can make it easier to spot damage).

Should you have any bearings that need to be replaced, visit your closest trailer supply store and ask for an exact match. Remember to clean the hub too by using paper towels to get rid of dirt and water.

Step 7:

Get your gloves and grab a grease gun to pack a generous amount of new high temperature grease into the hub, then place more grease externally around the rollers.

For less mess, use a bearing packer tool. Set the hub down on a clean towel then add extra grease to the axle spindle – but don’t get it on the brakes!

Step 8:

Turn over the wheel and return the cleaned, inner bearing to the hub.

Take your new grease seal and lay it inside the hub with the rubber side facing in. Gently tap along the seal with a thin block of wood to place the new seal flat against the hub surface.

Once it’s in place, add more lubricant along the grease seal’s lip.

Step 9:

Return the newly assembled hub to the spindle, using care to replace parts in the same order in which you removed them (outer bearing, washer, castellated nut and tab).

Apply a small amount of grease to the castellated nut, then place it over the castellated tab. Gently hand tighten and click the tab into place while using care not to over-tighten.

Rotate the castle nut until it stops, rotate the drum in the opposite direction until you feel resistance, then put the cap back onto the wheel hub.

Step 10:

Adjust the wheel brake.

Inside the back of the wheel hub, you should see a rubber cover that when removed, will expose a notched starwheel.

Place a flat head screwdriver inside the starwheel grooves then turn the wheel until you feel total resistance. Slowly rotate the wheel backwards, one notch at a time, until it’s just moving freely again.

Repeat this process on your other three trailer wheels.

Need More Guidance?

These videos about repacking trailer wheel bearings may be helpful:

How To Re-Pack Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease and Save

How to Pack / Grease Trailer Wheel Bearings

Knowing how to tow your trailer safely is only part of being a responsible trailer owner. Making sure your trailer is well-maintained is an essential step in keeping your trailer in good condition and fit for towing. Learning how to grease your trailer is an important part of your routine trailer maintenance.

We always recommend reviewing your owner’s and axle manuals or consulting with your Carry-On Trailer dealer for specifics on your trailer, but we’ve compiled some general guidelines and tips to help you know how to grease key components of your trailer so you can prevent rusting and corrosion damage to any trailer parts that move or could be susceptible to wear and damage over time.

Coupler and Hitch Ball

Grease your coupler and hitch ball before each tow, as well as monthly and at six-month intervals or every 6,000 miles. Apply a thin layer of automotive bearing grease to the ball and the inside of the coupler.

Ring and Pintle

Lubricate the inside of the pintle with a thin layer of automotive bearing grease. Check and grease as needed before each tow and at six-month intervals.

Landing Leg or Jack

If a grease fitting is present, apply grease with a grease gun to lubricate the jack mechanism. The gears in the top of hand-cranked jacks should be greased once a year. To do so, remove the top of the jack and either pump or hand pack grease into the gears. This should be done once a year unless advised otherwise.

Axles

If your trailer’s axle(s) are equipped with a grease zerk on the ends, the bearings must be greased every six months or 6,000 miles to ensure functionality. To apply the grease, remove the rubber plug from the axle end and place the grease gun on the zerk. Pump grease until new grease begins to appear. (TIP: Use a different color of grease with each application so it will be easier to see when the new grease appears.) Then install the rubber plug and cap, and repeat for the remaining wheel bearings.

If your trailer’s axle(s) are not equipped with grease zerks, consult your axle manufacturer’s manual for specific service and maintenance information.

Tips for Hand-Packing Grease into Bearings

Proper lubrication helps maintain functionality and reliability of your trailer’s axle(s). Bearings should be lubricated approximately every 12 months or 12,000 miles unless otherwise specified by the axle manufacturer. Carry-On Trailer uses Dexter axles for our trailers, and their recommendations for hand-packing bearing grease are as follows:

1. Place grease into the palm of your hand.
2. Press a section of the widest end of the bearing into the outer edge of the grease closest to your thumb, forcing the grease into the interior of the bearing.
3. Repeat the process while rotating the bearing from roller to roller.
4. Continue this process until the entire bearing is completely covered with grease.
5. Apply a light coating of grease in the bearing cup surface before reinstalling.

While it might seem like a small step, making sure your trailer is properly greased will help keep the necessary parts lubricated and working properly. As always, consult your owner’s manual or with your dealer for all best practices for maintaining your trailer.

Last Updated: April 7, 2020 References

This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. wikiHow’s Content Management Team carefully monitors the work from our editorial staff to ensure that each article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards.

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Your trailer’s wheel bearings are parts located inside the wheel hubs that help them spin fast with as little friction as possible. It’s essential to keep them in good shape to keep your trailer functioning safely. If you notice your bearings start making noises, then it might be time to replace them. In order to do so, you’ll need some basic mechanical tools, a new set of bearings, and a flat work surface. You’ll have to remove the hubs and old bearings, clean everything and apply new grease, then install the new bearings and reassemble everything. Soon enough, your trailer will be rolling along behind you smoothly again!

u00a9 2020 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.
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u00a9 2020 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.
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u00a9 2020 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.
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u00a9 2020 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.
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u00a9 2020 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.
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u00a9 2020 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.
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u00a9 2020 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.
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Tip: You could also use a hollow cinder block or anything else you have handy that can support the hub assembly with a gap underneath the inner bearing.

–> Grease Your RV Trailer Wheel Bearings
Ross gives tips on the best method for greasing your RV wheel bearings. Important information for both part time and full time RVers. –>

Check out more from this creator at the link below:
The Deprey’s –>

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11 COMMENTS

Thanks for the advice and ignore the so called experts posting below.

those bearing buddy’s are really for boat trailers. remove wheel, remove hub, inspect brakes, repack bearings – BEST WAY

Do you have a ClassA license to pull your rig? Over 10K (14,000+ #’s be careful!)

Use Power Punch wheel bearing grease, made in Seattle and it is the best grease you can use.

Most fulltimers don’t rack up many miles because they mostly stay put for months at a time. I think you may be overdoing it at every 3 months with very few miles. Your 5er is still practically brand new. How many miles are on it? Is there a recommended mileage or time interval for greasing wheel bearings on that particular chassis? Safe travels

Thanx for the great advice.

Hey deprey’s
Great video buttercup
Saw you just subscribed to my channel ,,( that’s awesome thanks )
travel safe ,,love you guys,,liked ( thumbs up )

Check out
Dexter E-Z Lube® System, are you sure you don’t have?

nice post,is there a time you should go up top? and clean the a/c unit, blow it out with air or ant thing?

If you are wondering when you should service your trailer’s wheel bearings, refer to the below key things to look for. If you trailer falls into any of these points, you should consider servicing your wheel bearings.

• You have driven 6,000 miles or more with your trailer
• It has been 6 months since your last wheel bearing service
• Your trailer hasn’t moved for an extended period of time
• The hub has 1/8″ or more of side-to-side play
• While the trailer is raised by a jack, you hear an abnormal sound or grinding noise when spinning the tire
• There is a wobble in your tire while spinning the wheel

If you trailer has one or more of the above issues, it is time to service your wheel bearings. You can bring your trailer into your local TrailersPlus dealership for service, or you can perform the wheel bearing service at home with the below steps:

• Locate all of the proper equipment needed to perform the job safely: jack stands, jack that is rated for your trailer’s weight, a level work surface, gloves, and wheel chocks
• Place the trailer on a level work surface
• Chock the tires to prevent the trailer from rolling away or rocking side-to-side
• Place the jack on the main frame rail or equalizer, depending on your situation
• Lift the trailer high enough to place onto jack stands and have the tire off the ground
• Remove the dust plug on your dust cap
• Attach your grease gun onto the zerk fitting
• While spinning the tire, pump the grease
• When you see the grease pushing back toward the dust cal, the grease reservoir is full. If you already have a reservoir full of grease, you can wipe away the old grease as the new is pumped in.

Your trailer wheel bearings are serviced! Your trailer is now ready to roll down the road again.

06 December
2014

All the dirt on how, when and where to grease your trailer.

When dirt, dust or salt water get into the moving parts on your trailer, it’s likely to cause friction and wear. Grease not only keeps everything lubricated and moving smoothly, but also acts as a coolant against heat caused by friction.

Let’s take a look at when and how to grease trailer bearings, wheels, axles and all the parts that keep your trailer on the road.

Where should you apply grease?

Trailer bearings – the cylindrical rings inside the wheel hub that connect the wheel to the axle and allow it to rotate freely – play an important role in the smooth running of the wheels, so it’s important to always keep them greased well.

Grease also helps avoid rust, so apply it regularly to the coupling, winch and axle springs – in fact, anything that moves or could be exposed to wear or corrosion over time.

Get down and dirty

Applying grease on your trailer means you’re going to get messy. By all means, squirt it on with a grease gun, but to really make sure the surfaces are covered, nothing works as well as your hands.

When it comes time to change the grease on your trailer bearings, it’s important to clean them well with a solvent before applying the new grease. This will ensure any dirt, wear or old grease is completely removed.

The best way to pack the bearings is by squirting a wad of grease into the palm of one hand and pushing them down into it with your other hand, using a rolling motion to squeeze the grease all the way through. Do this with both the inner and outer bearings.

When is the best time to check and add grease?

• Generally, the smaller the tyre, the faster the wheels spin putting stress on the bearings, so frequency can be determined by how the trailer is used and where it has travelled.
• For a trailer that isn’t used often, bearings should be lubricated every 12 months.
• Check grease before starting out on a long journey.
• After hauling a boat traileron a longer journey, it’s a good idea to grease the bearings after launching the boat to displace any water that infiltrated when the hot wheel hubs met the cooler water. It’s not so necessary at the end of the day when you submerge the trailer again to get the boat out, as the hubs will be cool. It’s also not necessary if you’re using bearing protectors.

Most marine, hardware, automotive dealers and service stations will sell the grease you need for the job. It’s advised that you choose your product from recognised, reputable brands – this is one aspect of your trailer’s maintenance that should never be compromised.

How can you tell when your trailer is in need of some serious maintenance? Here are some clues.

Last Updated: 13th March, 2020

Correspondingly, how often should I grease my travel trailer bearings?

Standard tapered trailer wheel bearings are recommended to be re-packed with fresh bearing grease about every year or every 12,000 miles under normal use. In certain conditions this interval could be shorter, such as if you routinely tow the trailer under conditions of extreme heat or near its maximum load capacity.

Also Know, can you over grease wheel bearings? There’s no such thing as too much grease for bearings! You would not pack grease in the hub otherwise and not in the drum since the brakes would not be able to grab with grease in the hub. Grease caps, dust caps, and bearing protectors have to be installed right to avoid losing them.

Just so, how do I know if my trailer bearings need grease?

Keep your hand on the wheel and spin it. If you feel any motion that is not smooth, hear any noises, or if the wheel does not spin freely, the wheel bearing is defective or needs lubrication.

What is the best grease for trailer wheel bearings?

The Best Wheel Bearing Grease

1. Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Automotive Bearing Grease.
2. Lucas Oil Heavy Duty Grease.
3. Mag 1 High Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease.
4. Sta-Lube Marine Wheel Bearing Grease.
5. Royal Purple Synthetic Bearing Grease with Grease Gun.
6. Allstar Timken Wheel Bearing Grease.
7. Lucas Oil Marine Grease.
8. Star Brite Wheel Bearing Grease.

Easy Steps to Install a Marine Bearing Seal Correctly

Grease is applied to a marine seal and bearing for one reason only, to reduce friction. Friction produces heat, excess heat through incorrect installation destroys bearings.

Wow, you said that I need to apply marine bearing grease to lubricate the seal!

Is it true, poor installation practices reduce the life of bearings by up to 40%.

Australian Marine Bearing Seals

Firstly, apply grease to the Australian marine seal significantly reduces heat-causing friction. Surprised?

Secondly, the ID of a Marine grease seal is a shrink-fit and very tight fit on an axle.

Thirdly, the ID of a marine seal does not spin, only the steel OD of this seal spins.

The connection between the rubber seal and stainless metal housing creates friction.

There are two lips on the inside of the rubber seal. Apply ample grease to these lips to significantly reduce friction and greatly increase bearing life.

As a result, water ingress does not continue to be a significant problem.

In 90% of cases, marine grease is not applied to the inner lip of a marine seal. Grease prevents air from being sucked into the bearing cavity when the hot wheel hub is immersed into the cold seawater.

A greased marine seal provides an additional barrier to help prevent water ingress. It also offers corrosion protection.

Oil Seal

Proper installation of any seal requires lubrication on the machined steel surface.

Bearing Buddies

Can the over-lubrication of bearings by boaties fix the problem of water in the grease? How?

New grease pushes out the old marine bearing grease through the back grease seal.

This method is dangerous and should be avoided.

1. The ideal amount of grease in your bearing cavity is approximately 50%.
2. As the bearing cavity heats up, excess grease spills over the inside of your wheel.
3. Excess grease is ‘flung’ onto the road surface during transit.
4. Grease stains on the springs, wheel rims and undercarriage of your boat trailer are almost impossible to clean.

Inspect every bearing set for carbon black in the grease, then correct adjustment.

On one occasion at the Hawkesbury River, I was preparing my boat for the return home to Brisbane. While checking the bearings, I found one bearing journal so worn that it would not have successfully made the trip back.

Disaster saved, from checking my bearings before the long trip home.

Frequent Bearing Checks

Increasing the frequency bearing checks reduces disasters.

Over time, the outside casting on your bearing wears. This wear creates carbon black. As a result, worn bearings also cause heat and accelerates bearing failure.

Are your bearing buddies being stolen? Maybe they are not being taken, find how why.

Please leave a comment if you found the above tips useful. If you find errors or disagree, I would love to hear from you.

2 Comments

While checking the bearings, I found (on) ONE bearing journal so worn; it would not have successfully make the trip back.
I guarantee you bearing failure IF you expect your bearings to last forever and ignore critical checks.

What a great site, glad I found you. You’ve already provided some great advice!

Don’t want to be “that guy” stranded on the side of the road with a disabled trailer? Before you hit the road, be sure to check your braking system and trailer wheel bearings.

How to Check your Trailer’s Wheel Bearings:

A trailer’s wheel bearings are often neglected because they are out of sight. A loose, worn or damaged wheel bearing is the most common cause of brakes that grab.

For adequate trailer wheel bearing maintenance, you need to check your bearings on a regular basis. Jack up the trailer and secure it on adequate capacity jack stands. Here is a helpful article on checking your trailer’s wheel bearings.

Check wheels for side-to-side looseness – There should be a very slight amount of play in the wheel, typically 1/8-inch or less. If the wheels are loose or spin with a wobble, the bearings must be serviced or replaced.

Check for noise – Have someone listen from both the driver’s side and the curbside as you tow your trailer past at about 25 mph. They should be listening for any squeaks, grinding noises, clicking or any other sound emanating from the trailer wheels. If noise is heard, check for a bad bearing or if lubrication is needed.

Check for Heat – Tow the trailer for a short distance, 5-10 miles at highways speeds, then park the trailer. Place your hand on each of the wheel hubs of the trailer. If it is too warm to hold your hand in place, you may have a bad bearing. The wheel bearing may; require lubrication, be bad or not have enough play.

Basic Trailer Maintenance – Grease Wheel Bearings

If your axle(s) are equipped with a grease zerk on the ends of the axle(s), the bearings must be greased every 6 months or 6,000 miles to ensure reliable and safe operation of your trailer.

To grease your bearings, you will need: jack stand(s), car jack, wheel chocks, grease gun, socket set, screwdriver

1. Remove the rubber plug from the axle end.

2. Place grease gun on zerk.

3. Pump grease until new grease begins to appear. Use different color grease each time so you will know when the new grease begins to appear.

4. Install rubber plug and cap. Repeat for remaining wheel bearings. If your trailer axle(s) are not equipped with grease zerks, refer to the axle manufacturer’s manual for service and maintenance information.

WARNING: It is important to NOT mix different types of grease thickeners. The grease that the axles use has a lithium complex thickener. Mixing the grease with a barium, calcium, clay, or polyurea soap based thickener agent will cause adverse effects. This may include causing the two greases to harden, separate, become acidic or pose other hazards and damage to the bearings. Now that you have found the issue but need the trailer parts to fix it, visit store.felling.com and order your parts for fast delivery. If you prefer to talk to a Service Rep just to make sure you have the right items on order, give us a call at 1-866-335-5464.

When the bearing on one of the wheels of your Triton trailer wears out, you will need to replace it. You will usually need to do this when the bearing wears out or has not been properly lubricated. You will need to remove its protective cap or cover to access the bearing.

Step 1

Remove the grease cap from the hub by using a flat blade screwdriver to pry off the cap. You may need to place the screwdriver on the lip of the cap and tap on it with a hammer to create a gap.

Step 2

Pull off the nut retainer that covers the spindle nut.

Step 3

Remove the spindle nut with the socket wrench. Turn the wrench to the left to loosen the nut. Continue turning the nut to the left to remove it from the spindle.

Step 4

Pull off the spindle washer located behind the spindle nut. Use the ends of your fingers to pull the washer off of the spindle.

Step 5

Pull the old bearing out from the inside of the hub.

Step 6

Place a small amount of grease in the palm of your hand. Press the new bearing down into the grease to force the grease into the bearing.

Step 7

Repeat step 6 while rotating the bearing until the bearing has been completely filled with grease. Add more grease to your hand as needed.

Step 8

Insert the greased bearing back into the hub.

Step 9

Set the spindle washer back in place and then replace the spindle nut. Tighten the spindle nut with the socket wrench.

Replace the retainer nut and then set the grease cap back on the hub and use a hammer to tap it back in place.

Warning

• If you do not completely cover the bearing with grease, it will wear out sooner and need to be replaced again.

Items you will need

• Flat blade screwdriver
• Hammer
• Socket wrench
• Bearing
• Grease

This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us.

Wheel bearings are necessary to keep all vehicles’ wheels turning properly. There are bearings in every wheel or axle of a trailer. These bearings must be kept lubricated so they function correctly and prevent a breakdown. This article will tell you how to grease trailer bearings.

1. Loosen the lug nuts of the tire with a lug wrench. You should do this for all the tires on the trailer side you are starting on.

2. Jack the trailer axle up with a bottle or floor jack. Place a jack stand on each side of the wheel to support it.

Prevent the wheel on the other side of the trailer from moving by putting a block of wood behind it,

3. Remove the lug nuts and wheel with the lug wrench and look at the back of the wheel and hub for grease. The rear seal will need to be replaced if you see any grease.

4. Pry off the hub dust cap with a flat-head screwdriver. Use light taps on the screwdriver once it is underneath the lip to get the cap loose.

5. Rotate the hub slightly to check for any noises that indicate the bearings have to be replaced. Located the cotter pin on the hub.

6. Straighten the ends of the cotter pin and remove it with needle-nose pliers. Remove the slotted nut and washer.

7. Take off the hub and outer bearing. The bearing might come out with the hub. Have rags ready for any grease that comes out.

8. Clean the hub, outer bearing and inner bearing with parts cleaner or a brush and pan of kerosene or gasoline. You should take off as much dirt and old grease as possible.

You should also clean the dust cap, washers and cotter pins.

9. Remove the seal and inner bearing the same way you removed the dust cap.

10. Allow the parts to air dry or blow them dry gently at low speed with compressed air.

11. Inspect the bearings and other parts closely for rusting. Pitting or other damage. Replace them if any damage is noted.

12. Pack your bearings with grease. You can use a bearing packer with a grease gun or pack them by hand. Both methods are described below.

1. Apply a jelly bean-sized amount of grease onto one hand. Hold the bearing with the other hand and wipe it through the grease.

2. Rotate the bearing occasionally to coat it evenly. Repeat these steps until grease is showing through the other side. Remember to grease the inner and outer bearings.

Reinstall the newly greased inner bearing and rear seal. Use a rubber mallet to tap the seal into the hub until it is flush with the hub bore.

3. Coat the inner part of the hub with grease and slide it back onto the axle. Place the greased outer bearing and washer back into place.

4. Put on the slotted nut and tighten it as you spin the hub. You should loosen the nut a little if the hub slows down or stops turning.

5. Ensure the cotter pinholes is exposed and put the pin back into place. Bend the ends back out and around the nut to hold it in place.

6. Tap the dust cap back into place over the hub with the rubber mallet. Push grease into the cap as you spin the hub to distribute all the grease.

7. Use a spring or indicator inside the cap to determine how full it is. Stop the grease when the spring is fully compressed or the indicator is at “full”.

8. Coat the lug thread with anti-seize compound and reinstall your wheel and tire. Repeat this process for all of your tires.

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A vital element to keeping your trailer on the road

Monitoring trailer bearings is crucial to maintaining a safe functioning trailer. Noisy wheel bearings indicate that it is time to change them, and left alone, could seize and cause serious damage.

What you’ll need

• New split pin
• New seal
• New dust cover or bearing protector
• New bearings
• Or a kit which includes the above
• Basic mechanical tools
• Kerosene or solvent
• Container to wash parts
• Hammer
• Punch
• File or sandpaper

Step 1 – Remove Hub Assembly

Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, adjusting nut and washers.

Then pull the hub towards you – taking care not to let the outer bearing fall out. The inner bearing and seal with also come out with the hub.

Step 2 – Old Bearings

With the hub on a bench, remove the outer bearing by simply lifting it out.

Remove all of the old grease from the hub assembly and spindle, cleaning with kerosene or solvent.

Remove the inner bearing and seal using a hammer and punch.

Step 3 – Inspect Spindle

Have a close look at the spindle, checking for scoring, damaged thread or other damage.

Apply a light coating of grease on the spindle to make installation easier and assist with cooling.

Step 4 – Inspect Hub

Inspect the hub bore and cup backing shoulder for nicks and burrs. Remove any if found.

Step 5 – New Bearings

Pack the bearings the grease once removed from the packaging. To hand-pack bearings, force grease under the cage between the rollers – starting from the large side until it shows on the smaller side.

Alternatively you can use the ToolPRO Portable Bearing Packer

Fill the hub with grease to the inside diameter of the outer bearing races.

Step 6 – Installing Bearings Into Hub

Install the inner bearing and seal into the hub. Make sure the seal is pointed the correct way.

Then, install the outer bearing.

Step 7 – Reinstalling Hub

Slide the hub onto the spindle taking care not to damage the seal against the end of the spindle.

Step 8 – Adjusting Bearing

Apply preload to the bearing before final adjustment by tightening up the adjusting nut, and then backing off a couple of times.

Use a 12″ wrench for final adjustment.

When the hub binds slightly, you’ll know that all parts are properly seated. Back off the nut a 1/4 of a turn. Then lock in place with a new cotter pin.

Step 9 – Installing Cup

Work around the outer edge of the cup in a cris-cross motion with a hammer. Continue until it is solidly seated against the hub shoulder.

Step 10 – Re-install Wheel And Test

Reinstall wheel and give the trailer a test tow.

Whether you are an experienced RV owner or you have recently acquired a new travel trailer, there is one thing that all trailer owners can agree on: repacking your wheel bearings is essential to the art of RVing.

How often do you need to repack travel trailer bearings? It is recommended that travel trailer bearings be repacked every year or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first. It is also suggested to check your bearings every season to ensure their proper functioning.

Travel trailer bearings may be little but they are mighty, and can cause lots of major headaches on your future travels if they are not maintained properly. Conducting regular, thorough check-ups on your bearings will ensure that your travel trailer is working appropriately for all of your future adventures.

Table of Contents

What are Bearings & Why are They Important

A wheel bearing is a small, O shaped ring containing metal balls that can be found in the center of each wheel on a travel trailer. They allow the wheel to spin effectively around the axle of the trailer. With continual usage and exposure to the weather, the bearings can wear down on their own and will require maintenance. Because of this, it is important for a travel trailer owner to regularly check the condition of their wheel bearings on an on-going basis.

Repacking a wheel bearing involves routinely greasing these mechanisms in order to lessen the friction that is caused by the wheel spinning around the axle. This will allow the wheel to rotate properly when in motion. Bearings must be continually repacked to ensure that they will operate correctly to avoid damaging the wheel or the trailer itself. Without suitable grease, the friction caused by the rotations will eventually damage the bearing, leading to a number of hazards.

When to Repack Your Bearings

Neglecting your bearings can lead to serious accidents, costly damage expenses on your trailer, or even leave you stranded on the side of the road mid-trip. It is essential to check the status of your bearings continually over the lifetime of your trailer. From the moment you purchase your trailer, start off by checking on the wheel bearings. Even if you have owned your trailer for a while and have not checked in on those little guys lately, it is never too late to start.

The amount of time between required repackings for the bearings on your model really depends on the amount of traveling you are doing with your trailer each year. While this timeline may differ from trailer to trailer, it is recommended that you inspect your travel trailer’s bearings at least once a season. This allows the owner to be informed on the condition of the bearings and how they are holding up over time.

The safest method for knowing when to repack your bearings is do it every year or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first. While there may be people who go longer than this suggested timeframe, this is the best way to protect yourself and your trailer from any mishaps on the road while traveling.

Signs Your Bearings Need to be Repacked

Every trailer is different, and you should always consult the owner’s manual in order to know what maintenance is specifically required for your model. Since wheel bearings tend to be “out of sight, out of mind”, it is important to schedule regular check-ups to ensure that they are performing adequately. That being said, there are some tell-tale signs that a travel trailer’s bearings need to be looked at, repacked or replaced.

• The wheels will make a squeaky noise when they are rotating – This is the most common symptom of an unlubricated wheel bearing. When driving the trailer, listen for “grinding” or “whining” noises coming from the wheels. This could be an indication that the bearings are needing to be repacked.
• The wheels do not rotate smoothly when turned – When enough grease is present, the bearings will slide smoothly around the axle. However, in the absence of grease, the smoothness will disappear only to be replaced by a choppy, tugging motion.
• The metal area around the wheel bearing is hot – If a bearing is not greased like it is supposed to be, the bearing will rub creating friction. This will lead to a heat build-up around the wheel bearing.
• Smoke is being produced from the bearing in question – The continual grinding of metal can cause smoke to arise from the faulty or unlubricated bearing.

If you notice any of these signs while in motion with your trailer, pull over immediately. Do not continue to use your trailer until you are able to have the bearings looked at either by yourself or by a professional. Doing this will prevent further damaging the bearing or the axle until it has been serviced and approved to go out on the road again.

How to Repack Your Bearings

To repack a travel trailer’s bearings, you can either take the trailer to an RV shop or do it yourself. If you are going to take your trailer to a professional, do some research to find a well reviewed place to take it.

You want to make sure that whoever is working on your trailer knows how to service it properly and will do an honest job. Regardless of who you take your trailer to, take some time after your appointment to check the bearings yourself. This way, you can be aware that all of the wheels are ready to go, and that the job was done properly on all of the bearings.

Taking your trailer to an RV location to have it serviced will probably cost you somewhere in the range of a few hundred dollars for this specific job.

Repacking the bearings on your trailer at home can save you lots of money over the course of your trailer’s lifetime. It does not require a special set of skills or tools, just the ability and know-how to get it done. Being able to repack the bearings is mostly dependent on your comfort level and your willingness to get dirty and greasy. The entire process will take a few hours from start to finish depending on the number of bearings to be repacked. Allow some extra time for your first repack in order to learn as you go.

If you choose to repack your bearings yourself, do your research on the supplies that you will need and the steps that will need to be taken before you get started. Consult videos and written how-tos to guarantee that you are repacking the bearings accurately. Having someone help you during your first repack can also be very helpful.

Do All Travel Trailers Require Repacking?

Not all travel trailers need this service. Some trailers come equipped with sealed bearings that do not require repacking. While they still require their own maintenance and up-keep, this process looks very different than traditional wheel bearings requiring grease. Consult your owner’s manual to identify what types of bearings you have if you believe that your bearings might not need this regular servicing.

Don’t let a faulty wheel bearing keep you from your next adventure with your travel trailer. Regularly repacking your bearings will allow you to avoid certain setbacks the next time you take it out on the open road!

Some engineers see lubricants as a straightforward, messy ancillary of the industrial age. However, much like rolling-element bearings themselves, lubrication is an ancient technology that’s highly engineered in modern forms. In fact, engineers have used fluids to reduce friction thousands of years, but the advent of the oil industry in the late 19th century spurred modern bearing lubrication. Today, bearing lubricants serve several functions:

Creating a barrier between rolling contact surfaces
Creating a barrier between sliding contact surfaces
Protecting surfaces from corrosion
Sealing against contaminants
Providing heat transference (in the case of oil lubricant)

Lubricants take the form of either oil or grease. Oil lubricants are most common in high speed, high-temperature applications that need heat transfer away from working bearing surfaces. Bearing oils are either a natural mineral oil with additives to prevent rust and oxidation or a synthetic oil. In synthetic oils the base is usually polyalphaolefins (PAO), polyalkylene glycols (PAG) and esters. Although similar, synthetic and mineral oils offer different properties and are not interchangeable. Mineral oils are the more common of the two.

The most important characteristic when specifying oil for a bearing is viscosity. Viscosity is a measure of a fluid’s internal friction or resistance to flow. High-viscosity fluids are thicker like honey; low-viscosity fluids are thinner like water. Engineers express fluid resistance to flow in Saybolt Universal Seconds (SUS) and centistokes (mm2/sec, cSt). The difference in viscosity at different temperatures is the viscosity index (VI). An oil’s viscosity is correlative to the film thickness it can create. This thickness is crucial to the separation of the rolling and sliding elements in a bearing. Bearings in some applications use oil, but grease is the lubricant of choice for 80 to 90% of bearings.
Grease consists of about 85% mineral or synthetic oil with thickeners rounding out the rest of the grease volume.

The thickeners are usually lithium, calcium or sodium-based metallic soaps. Formulations for higher-temperature applications often include polyurea. The higher viscosity of grease helps contain it within the bearing envelope. The most important considerations when choosing a grease are the base oil viscosity, rust-inhibiting capabilities, operating temperature range and load-carrying capabilities.

Check out the 5 best bearing lubrication videos on the internet here.

Comments

I didn’t know something like viscosity would really make a difference with different moving parts. I know that many parts need to be able to reduce friction as much as they can’ with how lubricants work I thought that viscosity wouldn’t play a huge factor because it would just make the parts move together easily. I will definitely find out what kind of lubrication my parts will actually use.

Why the oil lubrication is used in pumps and grease lubrication is used in motor for Anti friction bearings?

Bearing buddies are grease-based protective covers that go over the bearing of a wheel on a boat trailer. They are there to ensure that the wheel bearing is always covered in grease. In order to service or replace the wheel bearings on a boat trailer, it will be necessary to remove the bearing buddies from the wheel hub.

Step 1

Make sure your work area is properly prepared. Lay sheets of paper towel on the ground to set the bearing buddies when they are taken off of the wheel hub. The bearing buddies will be full of grease and will need to be placed on a clean surface.

Step 2

Place a small block of wood against one side of the bearing buddy and strike it with the hammer.

Step 3

Set the block of wood on the opposite side of the bearing buddy and strike it with the hammer again.

Step 4

Repeat the previous two steps to slowly work the bearing buddy away from the wheel hub. This is a slow process but will not damage the bearing buddy.

Step 5

Place a small pry bar or screwdriver under the bearing buddy and pry under it. The bearing buddy should then begin to slide off of the wheel hub.

Step 6

Pull the bearing buddy off of the hub and set it on the paper towel.

Repeat the previous five steps to remove the bearing buddies from the other trailer wheels.

• You can leave the trailer on the ground to remove the bearing buddy unless you plan to take the wheel off of the trailer.

Warning

• Hitting the bearing buddy too hard with the hammer can damage or ruin it and need to be replaced.

Items you will need

• Paper towel
• Hammer
• Small block of wood
• Pry bar or screwdriver

This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us.

Wheel bearings aren’t glamorous, but keeping them turning can save your vacation.

Photo: Thinkstock

Picture this: Your family sitting dejectedly on the roadside while you wait for BoatUS Trailer Assist or while one of you heads off to find a service center that can replace the trailer’s damaged wheel bearings. This is not how you want to start your vacation. While servicing wheel bearings isn’t the most exciting job, it can save a lot of lost fun-in-the-sun time — something few of us can afford to give up.

All grease is not created equal. Even grease labeled “marine” can be incompatible with use on boat trailers. Don’t change the type you use unless you’re cleaning and repacking bearings.

Today’s wheel-bearing assemblies are no different from those of 20, 30, even 50 years ago. They still use grease as a lubricant and coolant, still employ caged rollers that roll on a pressed-in race, and still use a rubber-lipped seal to keep grease in and water out. What’s changed is the grease that’s used to lube them; today’s greases, especially synthetics, can offer a longer bearing life and more forgiving environment against roller failure. In addition, there are more methods than ever before for protecting and greasing the bearings without actually changing the grease. While Bearing Buddy brand-name protectors have been available for several decades now, they’ve been improved several times over and have met many forms of competition. In addition, new types of lubrication have been introduced in recent years, and liquid-oil-bath systems offered by several manufacturers have become more popular.

Grease 101

Grease is nothing more than heavy motor oil with a thickening agent (usually soap) added. The thickener is what makes it stick to the metal it’s lubricating, in this case, the bearings. Grease is produced and sold in a variety of viscosities, or thicknesses, ranging from 0 to 6, with 0 the softest (almost liquid) and 6 the hardest (like firm cheese). Most grease carries a 2 rating, which is like peanut butter.

Grease also carries a letter rating. The label G means it’s certified for use in automotive wheel-bearing applications, while L means use on an automotive chassis (to lubricate, say, tie rods, universal joints, spindles, or steering knuckles). The letters A, B, or C typically follow, which mean Good (A), Better (B) and Best (C). So grease labeled GC is certified Best for automotive wheel- bearing use. Grease can carry both G and L ratings, meaning it’s suitable for both chassis and bearing use. If the grease is labeled GC-LC, this means it received the highest possible rating for automotive chassis and bearing use. Greases displaying this rating meet OEM requirements.

Compatibility

Not all types of grease thickeners are compatible with each other. Therefore, not all greases are compatible, even when designed for the same usage. When replenishing old grease, select a type with either the same kind of thickener or one that’s compatible. If you don’t know what grease you’re replacing, try to clean out the old grease, if possible. If you can’t get the old grease out, put in enough new grease to push out as much of the old stuff as you can. Find the information you need about the kind of thickener used in your grease on the label or packaging. The manufacturer may refer to the thickener as the base, thickener, or soap.

Bottom Line

The story today is not much different than it was years ago: Automotive bearing grease is OK in a pinch, marine wheel-bearing grease is better, and synthetic marine-wheel bearing grease is best. The name brands are familiar, with a few new players offering new formulations. Best advice: Use a high-quality synthetic marine grease that’s water resistant, and do the best job possible cleaning out the old grease when repacking. Don’t mix old and new greases if possible, and record what grease you’re using, so you know what to apply when your bearings need a shot of the slippery stuff, but it’s not yet time to do a complete repack. В

John Tiger, an outboard master technician, specializes in high-performance rigging, boathandling, and trailer towing. He got his first outboard at 7 years old, and has owned more than 60 since.

Automatically Lubricate Not Only Your Tractor, But Your Trailer Too.

Lubrication isn’t just required for class 5-8 vehicles, but it’s also important to properly lubricate your trailer, as well.В The most common issues with improper trailer lubrication are brakes sticking or overheating, which can lead to costly bearing or component failures, or worse, safety issues.В В

The most reliable solution for your trailer lubrication is to install an automatic lubrication system. But how do you properly power a lubrication system on a trailer? Well, the answer is easy – Graco’s Grease Jockey pneumatic trailer pump works with the parking or service brake lube points, completely eliminating the need for electrical power from the trailer.В

Its heavy-duty pump and reservoir are designed for reliable operation in harsh environments. The pump is designed to mount to the bogie with a universal mounting bracket. This location is not only convenient for easy refilling of grease, and monitoring of the grease level but also protects the pump from flying road debris.В

An important safety feature is the slack adjuster and S-cam lubrication, which help stop the brakes from sticking. This improves brake operation and extends component life.В

The Grease Jockey trailer lubrication system optimally greases the lube points shown in the illustration. For more information about Graco’s Grease Jockey trailer lubrication system, visit our product page for more information or contact us to speak with a qualified representative.

Your vacation or trip to the lake relies on your trailer bearings. Find out how to maintain them in this video.

Trailer bearings are easy to overlook, but a seized bearing can ruin a spindle and cause you to shell out hundreds of dollars for a new axle.

How to pack wheel bearings with grease

First, remove the wheel. Then remove the dust cap. You can use a screwdriver and hammer to accomplish this. Once the dust cap is off, remove the cotter key and remove the nut using a channel-lock pliers.

Next, pull the hub out a little and pull out the outer bearing and washer. Keep the bearing as clean as you can. You can reuse it if it’s in good shape. Then, pull the hub all the way off; the inner bearing and seal should stay in the hub.

Check the seal. If it’s wet, you’re likely losing grease and you should replace the seal. Use a screwdriver to remove the seal and inner bearing. Check the bearing condition for wear.

Use a rag to wipe the grease and debris from the bearing. You can use brake cleaner to cut through the grease. Examine its condition. If you notice wear or it feels rough as you turn it, replace the bearing.

Once the bearing is clean, it’s time to pack it with grease. You can buy a special tool that doesn’t cost much at most hardware stores for this purpose. Clamp the bearing in the tool and apply water-resistant grease until the bearing is full. Place it back in the hub and replace the seal. Use a hammer to lightly tap the seal until it’s seated.

You can also pack the bearing by hand. Fill your palm with grease and rub it into the nooks and crannies of the bearing until it’s full of grease. Make sure to apply grease to both sides.

Now, slide the hub back on the axle and install the outer bearing. Install the outer washer and nut. Take care not to overtighten the nut, otherwise the bearing may overheat. Tighten the nut, then back it off a quarter-turn until the wheel spins freely. Don’t forget to install the cotter key. Put the dust cap back on and you’re done.

Make sure to pack your bearings once a year, and your trailer should work great all season.

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There’s more going on in that drum than just the axle bearings. When you take time to physically remove your wheel drums, you’ll have a good view of all the vital inside components. Photo courtesy of iRV2.com

RV maintenance question of the day: How often should you grease your trailer’s axle bearings? Consensus among repair professionals says “once a year.” On the popularity scale, greasing wheel bearings is right around the same level of dumping holding tanks.

Some RVs are rolling off the assembly line with axles that have zerk fittings. You simply pump grease into the fitting until the old grease replaces the new grease and off you go. It’s quick and easy, but it’s not all that it’s cracked up to be when its comes to this type of maintenance. Here’s why.

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Annual hand-packing of wheel bearings could make a huge difference to your safety and peace of mind. Photo courtesy of iRV2.com

There’s more going on in that drum than just the axle bearings. Be sure to take time and go beyond basic axle maintenance. So, when you physically remove the wheel drums and manually pack the bearings, you’ll have a good view of all the vital components. The most obvious inspection points are shoe linings. If they are less than 1/16-inch thick or if the linings are cracked, gouged, grease or oil soaked – or even coming loose from the shoe it`s time to replace the shoes.

Also, give the actuating lever a good move. There should be free movement, no rubbing or binding. Check out the magnets as they should show even wear. If equipped with recessed screws or rivets and worn down, it’s time for new magnets. Remember, whatever you replace on one side of the rig you should replace on the other. Also, take a look at the armature (that metal surface that the magnets grab onto) and the inside of the drum. Scoring or excessive wear means turning or perhaps replacement. As some newer brakes are self-adjusting, most must be manually adjusted.

This brings us to the bearings. Even if you’ve been ardent about squirting your bearings every year, if you bought the rig used, are you sure the bearings were cared for? Is it possible the bearings have been tortured by excessive heat and are barely hanging on? Picture the disaster that could come from a wheel coming loose and bouncing off down the road.

Obviously, if you just “squirt to lube” your bearings, you’ll never have an opportunity to look these critical systems over. Annual hand-packing of wheel bearings could make a huge difference to your safety and peace of mind.

Make sure the grease is compatible with what’s already inside the hub. Photo courtesy of airforums.com

Use the Right Grease for Your Axle Bearings

Some take the stance that every-other-year internal inspections are sufficient and figure a squirt-lube on alternate years should be fine. However, keep this in mind: Make sure the grease you use is compatible with what’s already inside the hub. Grease is nothing more than oil mixed with soap. The soap makes the oil sticky enough to cling to the bearing surfaces. But with soap and here’s the rub: not all soaps used in making grease are compatible. Bring together those that don’t like to mix and the result is the grease looses its sticky power and it leaves the bearings high and dry – and that fly-a-way wheel becomes a reality.

That’s why, if you decide to go with just the quick lube, you should thoroughly tear down and remove all existing grease. Manually repack your bearings and keep careful note of what grease you used for the “initial” packing. Then, when you squirt your bearings, use the same grease. You can’t go wrong.

Automotive, Garage

If you are one of the thousands of people that purchase a Haul Master Trailer from Harbor Freight Tools the process of setting up and building the trailer correctly will take you a few days. You probably can complete it in about 4 hours if you just don’t care.
I am in the process of doing this myself and there is a part that needs a little more explaining than the instruction manual provides.

I will only be explaining the removal of the rear / inner bearing and seal in this how to and other how tos will explain the packing of bearings and other assembly requirements.

The process of installing the wheel hubs require repacking of the bearings in the hub. If you are not experienced at this or if you learned on your own or by taking suggestions from people online you might end up destroying some brand new parts just so you can assemble your trailer. This is not necessary and if you do it the right way you won’t be waiting weeks for a new seal or set of bearings.

It seems from reading many suggestions from other owners that the grease that comes from the factory in the wheel bearings is more of a packing grease to protect the bearings from rusting while sitting in a warehouse and it should be replaced. I am not certain that this grease is Vaseline or packing grease but it is definitely not a high speed, heavy duty, high temperature grease which is what you must put in a trailer hub.

The problem you will face when building your trailer is that the inner bearing seal is installed. This means if you use a bearing seal puller or something worse like a screw driver to get it out you will destroy it.

The Grease Seal is used to retain grease in the bearing over time. The front bearing has a hub cap and its bearing must be packed manually at an interval based on use. If you use your trailer every day then you might have to pack the bearings every month. If you use it a few times a year then you can service your bearings once a year. It depends on the mileage, speed and other factors. Servicing requires disassembly of the hub and the manual cleaning and repacking of the bearings.

The front bearing is relatively easy to get at. You remove the bearing hub cap and then remove the cotter pin and castellated nut. The entire hub will now come off with the bearings. I suggest you keep the hub mounted in the tire and wheel while working on it because it allows better control.

Removing the Inner Bearing and Seal on your Trailer

Once you have the outer bearing and hub removed but still mounted to your tire and wheel the process of removing your inner bearing and seal is not too difficult but it does require care.

Use a paper towel and clean the back of the inner bearing by stuffing it through the outer bearing and through the center of the hub.

Once it is pretty clean in there you will see the two inner rings of the roller bearing. You will also see the outer most ring which is the back of the race.

The bearing race ring is about 1/8th inch thick and you will only be hammering on this ring to remove the bearing all in one piece. See Image Outside Race. You will be tapping the back of the outer most ring you see when looking into the hub.

Some people like to use a long center punch to tap on the back side of the race ring to force it out the back. I would suggest that you use a socket wrench extension so you do not cause damage.

Place the female end of the extension into the hub and press its edge to the outside wall of the hub and down on to the bearing race. Remember we are only tapping on that outside ring that is 1/8th inch wide.

When tapping out the race you want to do it evenly so it will not get cocked in the hub and possibly get deformed.

Give a firm tap at 12 o’clock and then move to 6 o’clock and then to 3 o’clock and then to 9 o’clock.

Follow this pattern as you tap out the entire race, bearing and seal.

It should only take a firm but light tapping of a few pounds pressure but it will take many taps to get it free. Less pressure is better. Take your time you only have two of these to do.

Once the race is forced far enough through the hub the seal will pop out and the bearing will drop off so you should put a shop towel or crumpled paper towels under it to catch the bearing and seal.

You do not need to remove the inner bearing race completely if you are only removing the bearing seal and roller bearings for repacking. Just tap it out far enough so the seal pops off.

Using a matching sized but slightly smaller socket you can then reinsert the bearing race by tapping it back into place. The best method would be to use a bearing race installer but if you don’t have one and can’t run out to buy one a socket or even a center punch will work.

Remember to seat the bearing race evenly. Inspect that it is seated by placing your finger into the hub and feeling for a gap. If you can not then use a visual inspection.

Final Note

At this point your parts are ready for servicing and you have not destroyed your bearing or bearing seals.

You will need to clean all the parts and then repack the bearing with high temperature heavy duty wheel bearing grease.

Use a proper degreaser such as brake cleaner and not a general purpose solvent that could end up breaking down your new grease. If you have compressed air blow the bearing dry before packing.

Remember clean all parts to remove metal fragments that can destroy your bearings very quickly.

Set aside a good hour and a half to complete this job including repacking the bearings and installing them on the axle.

You will need brake cleaner, High Temperature Heavy Duty Wheel Bearing Grease, Hand Tools and a bit of luck to not slip and trash your bearings.

Installing Trailer Bearings

If you ever have to open up a wheel hub on a trailer, chances are you’re going in to either grease the bearings or replace them because you didn’t. The key is to make sure the trailer bearings stay greased on your own terms, so you don’t find yourself replacing them on the side of the road at an inopportune time.

When installing trailer bearings or replacing them, you need a pair of pliers, a lug wrench, a hammer, a flathead screwdriver and the necessary means to jack the wheel up safely. Be sure to loosen the lug nuts with the lug wrench first. Once the wheel is in the air, all you have to do is follow a few simple steps.

­­First, completely remove the lug nuts and tire, followed by the dust cap or, if you’re using one, the bearing protector. You can remove the dust cap by prying it off with the screwdriver, but a protector may require a few light taps with a hammer. To gain access to the bearings, you’ll next need to straighten out and remove the cotter pin that holds the castle nut in place. Then remove the castle nut and washer.

The next move is to remove the wheel hub, which should simply slide off the central spindle if everything is in good condition. Next, pull the outer bearing off the hub. You may have to rock the hub or tap it with a mallet if the outer bearing is stuck. If you can’t get it to move at all, you’ll need to apply more force or take it to a garage. Once the hub is off the spindle, lay it down with the outer bearing facing up. Then remove the outer bearing (the bearing and race assembly closest to the outside of the wheel) and spindle washer, and set them aside. Next, pry off the inner seal and remove the inner bearing.

Now, you’ll want to take the inner and outer bearing cages out of their races to clean them. Remove as much grease as possible from the parts with rags, then w­ash them in solvent or degreaser and leave them out to dry. Once dry, inspect the parts to make sure there are no visible signs of rust, corrosion or other damage. If you find any problems, you’ll need to replace the parts.

Once you have clean, dry parts ready for reassembly, it’s time to gob on some fresh bearing grease. With boat trailers, you’ll need to grease the entire hub to help keep water out. Otherwise, just grease the race surfaces and pack the bearings with as much grease as they’ll hold. You can perform this task by hand or with a bearing packer, which typically costs $20 or less. Once packed, insert the inner bearing and seal, followed by the outer bearing and seal. Be sure to grease the spindle along the way. Once these are back in place, all you have to do is install the washer, castle nut, and dust cap or bearing protector. Then simply put the wheel back on and jack the trailer back down.

If properly cared for, these towing components should help to keep your trailer rolling along smoothly. However, if you need to replace them; new bearings and seals generally run in the neighborhood of $25 for a set of two. Just remember, one size does not fit all. Make sure you bring old parts to the garage or auto parts store to ensure you pick up some pieces you can use.

Explore the links below to learn even more about towing.

–> Grease Your RV Trailer Wheel Bearings
Ross gives tips on the best method for greasing your RV wheel bearings. Important information for both part time and full time RVers. –>

Check out more from this creator at the link below:
The Deprey’s –>

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11 COMMENTS

Thanks for the advice and ignore the so called experts posting below.

those bearing buddy’s are really for boat trailers. remove wheel, remove hub, inspect brakes, repack bearings – BEST WAY

Do you have a ClassA license to pull your rig? Over 10K (14,000+ #’s be careful!)

Use Power Punch wheel bearing grease, made in Seattle and it is the best grease you can use.

Most fulltimers don’t rack up many miles because they mostly stay put for months at a time. I think you may be overdoing it at every 3 months with very few miles. Your 5er is still practically brand new. How many miles are on it? Is there a recommended mileage or time interval for greasing wheel bearings on that particular chassis? Safe travels

Thanx for the great advice.

Hey deprey’s
Great video buttercup
Saw you just subscribed to my channel ,,( that’s awesome thanks )
travel safe ,,love you guys,,liked ( thumbs up )

Check out
Dexter E-Z Lube® System, are you sure you don’t have?

nice post,is there a time you should go up top? and clean the a/c unit, blow it out with air or ant thing?

If you’re relatively new to the world of towing and all of the terms, tools, equipment and accessories that come along with it, it’s easy to be a bit overwhelmed. Things like gross vehicle weight ratings, tongue weight, trailer brakes, drawbar pull, tie-down hangers, trailer roof vents and tow bars (among countless others) are often the focus of discussions online and at the local trailer supply parts counter. You’ll find that sometimes it’s easy to overlook the simplest of parts in these bigger discussions. Grease caps are a good example. These very small, yet very important, components typically get very little attention — that is, until something goes wrong and a cracked grease cap is the reason you’re sitting on the shoulder of the highway waiting for the roadside assistance truck to show up.

But what exactly are grease caps? What are they used for? Are they simply a decorative accessory for your trailer, or do they serve a real purpose? Well, you can be assured that grease caps are not decorative. Although a shiny chrome grease cap can be a nice touch on a rather plain trailer wheel, they serve a very important purpose. Grease caps are the small, round, metal covers you see at the very center of a wheel. Sometimes they’re called dust caps, but for clarity, we’ll call them grease caps from this point forward. Grease caps protect your wheel bearings from the dirt, dust, sand, water, salt and road grime that can (and will) destroy bearings. Without grease caps, your wheel bearings simply wouldn’t survive for very long out on the road.

Bearings require constant lubrication to remain effective. Thick bearing grease is packed all around the wheel bearings every time they’re replaced or even when they’re removed for wheel hub or axle service. Grease caps protect the bearing grease from contamination and also hold the grease that surrounds the wheel bearings in place.

In fact, the caps themselves are also packed with grease. This serves two purposes. It provides a continuous supply of grease for the bearings, and it also keeps the grease from migrating away. If the cap were empty, the grease might eventually work its way into the cap, filling the cap but leaving the bearings dry. That’s why it’s important to not only pack the bearings with grease but to also completely fill the caps with grease.

Now that you have a good idea of what grease caps are, read the next page to find out how to use them.

On any vehicle, protecting your wheel bearings from dirt, dust, water, salt, sand and other contaminants is critical, so when it comes to using grease caps, you don’t have much of a choice. That’s their job. You either use them and your wheel bearings will remain useful, or you don’t, and your wheel bearings wear out in a hurry.

Part of proper trailer maintenance involves wheel bearing maintenance. The trailer wheel bearings should be removed, cleaned and repacked with grease at least once each year. If you’re pulling a boat trailer, especially a trailer that’s exposed to saltwater, it’s a good idea to do this at least twice each year [source: Trailer Parts Warehouse]. This means that you’ll be removing the grease caps in order to get to the bearings, so don’t forget to completely fill the grease caps, too.

Grease caps come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes and finishes to custom fit every application. Sometimes they are the press-on type, but typically they are threaded in place — sort of like a lid on a jar. Knowing this is critical when you’re removing the grease cap. If you force a grease cap and somehow bend, crack or puncture it in the process, you’ll need to buy a new cap. The good news is that they’re not expensive — they’re usually only a few dollars each. The bad news is that you’ll need to get a new cap before you go anywhere. If you allow the bearings to be exposed for any amount of time, you’re risking contamination that can destroy the bearings.

One way to prevent damage to your grease caps (aside from knowing if the caps are the press-on or screw on-type) is to buy the proper tool to remove them. A lot of grease caps are damaged by people prying the caps away from the wheel hub with a screwdriver or similar tool. Several companies make tools designed specifically for this purpose, so if you’re going to be removing and replacing your grease caps frequently, it’s a good idea to purchase one. You’ll find that it will save you a lot of time, money and frustration when you’re servicing the wheel bearings.

To read more about towing equipment, towing accessories and other related topics, follow the links on the next page.

How to Pack / Grease Trailer Wheel Bearings.

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25 comments

Thanks for so saying. I appreciate your comment !

Good job…give that man a cigar.

Yes, you are correct – and I knew that once upon a time… I think my “senior moments” may be exacerbated by being in the “YouTube Video Spotlight” 🙂 I’ have added an annotation to the video so I don;t perpetuate my error in subsequent viewers pronunciations. Thanks for the English lesson / reminder. Best wishes… and thanks for watching.

A pair of latex gloves makes that job a whole lot easier to clean up after. I use them when I repack my wheel bearings and it just makes it so easy. i even use them when I change the oil. They work wonders.

Good tip !. I’ll  get a pair for the garage. Thanks for the comment !

Actually, I get a whole box of them (I’m talking about surgical gloves) . When I’m done I simply peel one glove off and place it in the palm of my other hand. Then I peel THAT glove off inside-out with the other one tucked neatly inside. NO MESS! As long as I don’t tear the gloves my hands need very minimal cleaning afterwards.

You are a very good teacher and very easy to follow and understand.
Keep up the Great work!!

Thank you for the kind words !

Great video! What do you use to clean the bearings?

Thanks Pink,
I clean the bearings with paper towels. Roll the bearings back and forth on the paper towel and most all the old grease will come off on the towel.

Great informative video. I looked at your others and didn’t see one on changing your trailer (electric) brakes. Do you have one?

Being a rookie at this, I watched most all the vids I could find that applied. Yours is without a doubt the most clear & informative. Many thanks for the pointers & instruction. Much appreciated Sir!

So far my RV trailer breaks are in good shape… but if/when I work on them, I will post a vid about it.

Mark, Thank you for so saying. Best wishes !

Thanks! I just grease my trailer bearing for the 1st time by myself with your tutorial.

Tanner, Glad ya got ‘er done. Best wishes !

When I was a kid the farmer I worked for had me clean the bearings with solvent to remove all the old grease and any particles that might be hiding in it. Then the bearings would get a soap bath, a real good rinse then blown dry with compressed air. Extreme maybe, but tractor bearings see much harsher environments than a utility/boat trailer.

Excellent comment ! I was just using a paper towel and some WD-40… but I like your method better. Thanks for taking the time to post your comment !

Your trailer tires can’t spin without bearings! Learn how to properly maintain yours.

Look for signs of grease leaking into the hubs or onto the rim of the tires before setting out. Losing grease is often an indication of trouble down the road.

Trailer wheels get doused in harbors, rivers, and lakes. Why does this matter? Consider how the wheel turns around the axle’s spindle; peer inside the wheel’s hub to the bearings (figure below). In order to keep the loaded wheels turning smoothly, bearings need to be amply lubricated with grease. That bearing grease is kept in place by one or more seals. Traveling down the road causes the hub and bearings to heat up. When you then immerse that heated wheel assembly in cold water, the temperature drop causes a vacuum inside the hub, which draws gritty seawater into the wheel assembly; damage to metal parts can follow swiftly.

Signs Of Bearing Wear

• The hub feels hot to the touch during refueling stops on the highway. This can also be the result of a brake shoe or brake pad rubbing while traveling.
• Grease on the bottom of the boat hull near the trailer wheel or grease on the trailer frame near the trailer wheel.
• Obvious noise is heard when spinning the wheel while it’s jacked up.
• If the usually reliable dust cover suddenly comes off, this can be the result of excessive heat and pressure buildup in the bearing assembly.

The figure above shows sets of bearings contained within the wheel’s hub. The bearings are tapered to match the camber of the spindle. These should be examined seasonally or every 2,000 miles and repacked with grease. To do that, first ensure that the opposite wheels are chocked and that the trailer is safely positioned on a stable jackstand on a level surface. Remove the dust cap and retaining nut, then slide the wheel assembly off, taking care not to drop the bearings. Avoid contaminating them with grit. Clean the bearing with a solvent such as kerosene, and inspect them for pitting or any other deformation. Also inspect the spindle for any scoring or pitting. If the surface of either the spindle or the bearings isn’t absolutely smooth, replace it.

To reinstall the wheel assembly, liberally grease the spindle, and pack grease into the bearing races. Carefully fit the grease retainer and bearings, then tighten the retaining nut with a wrench. Seat the wheel on the spindle by rocking it gently back and forth. While maintaining pressure on the wrench, spin the wheel until it will no longer rotate. This ensures that both bearings are properly seated. Finally, back the retaining nut off a quarter-turn, and lock it in place with a cotter pin.

A bearing protector solves the problem of launch-time vacuum pressure mentioned earlier. Available from several companies, it fits in place of the dust cap. A fitting at the hub allows you to pump grease at positive pressure into the assembly. Frequently launched trailers should have them. В

Tim Murphy is the coauthor of Fundamentals of Marine Service Technology (ABYC, 2012), from which this article is adapted.

We provide an overview of the different options to help you select the right bearings for your trailer.

They might be small, but trailer wheel bearings play a big part in delivering you and your load safely to your destination.

The bare details

Bearings are made up of two parts: the cup, which is pressed into the hub, and the cone, which contains the rollers. They are always replaced in a set – that is the cup and cone together.

In the wheel hub, the bearing on the inside of the hub flange (the side closest to the centre of the trailer) is called the inner bearing. The bearing on the outside is called the outer bearing.

To replace them, you’ll need to know the size and type of the bearings in your trailer’s wheel hub. Remove the hub and look for the reference numbers stamped into the metal of both inner and outer bearings. Once you have the numbers, it will be easy to work out the correct replacements.

If you can’t read the numbers stamped on the metal, take measurements of both bearings and the spindle. Use a digital caliper – a ruler or tape measure will not be accurate enough. Note also the brand of the axle and the ATM of the trailer before asking your distributor for replacements.

So many choices

When you go looking for replacement trailer bearings, you’ll possibly end up scratching your head over the options available. Basically, all you really need to know is that the axle determines the bearing size, and they must be rated correctly for the weight you’ll be hauling.

LM (Holden bearings) are rated for 750 kg on a 39 mm round or 40 mm square axle.

• SL (Slimline or Ford) bearings are rated for 1500 kg on a 45 mm round or square axle.
• Parallel bearings are generally considered better for going off road as they have a higher load rating (1600 kg). With standard bearings, the inner bearing is larger than the outer, but with parallel bearings they’re the same size.
• For heavier-duty trailers there are 1.5 tonne, 2 tonne, 3 tonne sets.

You’ll notice also that some are referred to as Japanese and others Chinese. Generally, Japanese bearings are long-haul bearings that stand up better to heat, while their Chinese counterparts are more suited for short trips.

Lastly, it depends on whether you want them for a caravan, trailer or marine use, so you need to specify that when buying new ones.

Can they be upgraded?

Your trailer’s bearings match the axle, or more specifically, its spindle. So if you upgrade your axle, you might well be forced to also upgrade the bearings. Normally, however, you would replace the existing ones with the same.

When choosing replacement bearings for your trailer, one important requisite is that they are quality, genuine parts. Always have them greased before you start on a long trip and carry a spare set.

Want to know more about the axle on your trailer? Get down and dirty with our guide to its working parts.

Maintenance is important to the overall safety of your travel trailer. Greasing your wheel bearings is a crucial step in that process.

The best grease for travel trailer wheel bearings is the Lucas Oil 10301 Heavy Duty Grease. It lasts 4X longer than regular grease, is virtually waterproof, and is stable in all temperatures. It’s the ultimate grease for high-speed bearing.

Table of Contents

The Right Type of Grease For Your Travel Trailer Wheel Bearing

Not only is it important to choose the best grease you also have to choose the right type of grease. They are not all the same as you might have guessed.

You will find both natural grease and synthetic grease. Both have their pros and cons. For instance, some lubricants include added thickeners to prevent the greasing from leaking out. Other additives can be used by manufacturers to prolong the life of the grease or extend its operating temperature.

Grease Types and Applications

For your travel trailer wheel bearing you cannot use just any grease. The grease you use needs to hold up well in high temperatures and high-pressure use.

High Temp Disc/Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease, such as the Lucas Oil 10301 is the recommend grease type for the wheel bearings. This type of grease is designed to handle extreme temperatures that come from the high speed of the wheel. They resist water and can help transfer heat from the disc brakes as well.

If you are in a pinch and need a quick lubrication solution this type of grease can be used for that too.

How Often Should You Grease Your Travel Trailer Wheel Bearing?

How often you grease your wheel bearing depends on how much you travel in your camper. Every few months is the recommended interval if you travel quite a bit. For those who travel occasionally greasing your travel trailer wheel bearing once a year or every 10,000 to 12,000 miles should be sufficient.

Additional Reading:

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Ray Roman

Ray Roman is the owner/author of Go Travel Trailers. He is the main contributor of content and an avid researcher of travel trailers and the RV lifestyle. He loves flyfishing, vacationing in Red River, NM, and spending time with family and friends.

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We are Ray and Tammy and we’d like to welcome you to our website. The RV lifestyle is something we are planning on doing once we retire. Here we share our research, RV and product reviews, RV travel destinations and much more.

Learn how to protect your Boat Trailer Bearings, and if needed where to buy replacements. Why is one of the smallest parts of the boat trailer one of the most critical to keep clean, greased and properly working? It is the bearings that allow the trailer wheels to turn freely, with no friction, no heat build up and keep you running for thousands of miles. If dirt or water get into the bearings and displace the grease then you are primed for bearing failure – and that means a bad day. The end result can be the wheel freezes up on the axle, and coming off the axle. This would not be good.

What Boat Trailer Bearings Look Like

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Boat Bearing Grease & Grease Gun

Trailer Bearing Covers

For reasons stated above, trailer bearings will have a dust cover over them. This seals out dust, dirt and water. Many trailer owners will switch out the dust cover with a grease cover that enables you to check the grease level in the bearings. As you can see there is a grease fitting on the outside. This cover replaces the dust cover, and you can apply the grease without removing the Bearing Buddy. Spring loaded, you can actually see and feel when there is adequate grease under the Bearing Buddy. Reasonably priced these are well worth it. Again size matters, be sure to match your Bearing Buddy to the size of the dust cover you remove.

My Kia failed its annual safety inspection so I’m going to be replacing the front wheel bearings (both front wheels have top-to-bottom play when up on the lift).

Some people say you should only use enough grease to thoroughly fill the bearings themselves. Others say things like “you can never have enough grease” and suggest packing the entire hub full of grease.

I have also read that too much grease can cause overheating and leakage issues. Others say that filling the entire cavity with grease means that there’s “no room” for anything else in there. such as water (I’ve heard this is mostly important for boat trailers where the wheels get submerged though).

How much grease is the right amount when packing wheel bearings?

(For reference my car is a 2002 Kia Sportage rear-wheel-drive and it uses the tapered-roller style of bearings)

2 Answers 2

You should not need any more grease than what it takes to pack the bearing itself. Packing the entire wheel hub assembly is not only a waste, it’s also not wise. When you go to change bearings or repack them in the future, you’ll need to clean all of that old grease out. This is not a good idea. As an aside, I pack new bearings which may or may not have been packed in grease from the factory.

To properly grease a bearing, put enough grease in your hand to cover your palm. Since you said it’s a taper bearing, place your index finger down through the center of the bearing. Your bearing hand (as opposed to your grease hand) should be facing palm down. The wide end of the bearing should also be pointing down. Squeeze the bearing with your middle finger and thumb to hold it tight. Press the bearing down into the grease on your palm, using your index finger (holding the bearing) as a guide against the side of your palm. Use a motion in which you are scooping the grease off of your palm with the bearing. After two to three swipes, you should start seeing grease push up between the roller bearings. Keep pushing grease up through the same spot until you see fresh grease come through. When this happens, rotate the entire bearing so you can start working on the next portion of the bearing. Keep doing this until the entire bearing is packed. This process tends to use a lot more grease than what you think it would, so don’t be surprised.

I have standard wheel hub caps on my utility trailer now. and I went over 10 years without doing anything..but remember all of a sudden on a very cold day I took my trailer off my truck and was wheeling it down the driveway when I heard a grinding noise. so had to replace the bearings and repack with grease. was told to get “Bearing buddies” a new product that is a wheel hub cap with a grease fitting on it so you can grease your wheel bearings regularly very easily.

BUT IS IT REALLY THAT HARD TO JUST TAKE THE CAP OFF AND PUT GREASE IN THE OLD FASHIONED WAY? HOW DO IT?

8 Answers

Here is a video:

or google” How to repack a roller bearing”.

It is easy and you don’t need any thing special it will take you

1 hour to do both wheels Longer the first time. Watch the video and go for it. You almost can’t mess it up.

Cleanliness is important don’t do it in a strong wind. The first time allow 3 hours.

Dis assemble the wheels and inspect, buy new parts before starting. you can buy two sets of parts do the job and return unused parts if they don’t have a re-stocking fee. If they do find another parts house.

Bearing buddies make more sense on a boat trailer that the axle gets submerged.

To repack bearings you need new inner bearing seals.

You need to fully dissssemble and clean the inside of the hub, including bearing races, so you can inspect the races.

You need to clean the bearings totally, so you can inspect the rollers.

You need some type of liquid solvent in a pan, with a small paint brush. Spray cans of something may not get the old grease out.

Repack with new wheel bearing grease.

Put the bearing back into its same race.

Use a flat plate to install the new seal.

Adjust with the proper looseness. You don’t tighten the spindle nut tight. You have to loosen it. Read about tapered roller bearing clearance.

Best if you have an experienced teacher guide you.

My buddy bearing popped out. I think grease got all over the wheel. How do I clean the wheel and repack the beaing with grease once I put on the new buddy bearing.

4 Answers

Easy-simply stick the buddy back and pump it full

Hard-spin your tire with it in the air, if it sounds rough ( may be if you ran it on the road dry ) this i what you need to do to..

with that wheel jacked up take the cotter pin/hub nut off. Pull on the hub til the hub, inner/outer bearings, seal come off the spindle. Take the old bearings to a trailer parts place and get new bearings ( 10$ ). Get some bearing grease from walmart and with a latex glove on work the grease into the bearings reassemble the hub in reverse order and you ought to be god to go. Its fairly easy; I have done it on the side of the highway in 5 minutes. If you ran the trailer and the bearings ran dry youd want to replace them or you can end up on the side of the highway lookin for where your wheel went.

As for cleaning the rim, good ol soap and water works fine.

Just use old rags to wipe off the old grease. Then reinstall the bearing buddy and put the new grease in by pumping it into the bearing buddy. Don’t disassemble the hub bearings unless they have failed and you are going to replace them. If that’s the case, prepack them before installing. Check instructions from your parts supplier. I learned to do it by hand from a mechanic 45 years ago. Good Luck!

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