How to install an outdoor outlet

If you want to decorate your house with festive holiday lights, or simply make the use of electric yard tools more convenient, an exterior electrical outlet is a very useful amenity to consider. Otherwise, you could find yourself running extension cords through partially open windows, which can drive up your heating and cooling costs, or using improvised and unsafe connections to outside light fixtures, which can present a serious fire hazard.

If you’ve never done electrical work before, the process involved in how to install an outdoor outlet might be daunting, but if you do your research, get the right materials and install them the right way, it can be an achievable goal even for an amateur do-it-your-selfer. Read on for step-by-step instructions on how to install an outdoor electrical outlet in your yard.

Finding the Best Location for the Outdoor Outlet

There are two primary factors you need to consider with an outdoor outlet for lights or other intended usage:

• What location is safest for an outdoor outlet?
• What location is the most convenient for how you plan to use the outlet?

Let’s explore an example where we install an exterior outlet for Christmas lights. In this case, a post on the front porch might make a good candidate, since this location provides protection for the outlet against rainfall, is located close to the front door and is also close to a circuit that ties into the circuit breaker panel. The same location would likely work for Halloween, Valentines Day, Easter, or any other occasion when you want to set up festive outdoor lights.

Use Durable Wire for Exterior Outlets

The correct wire to use for outside projects is Type UF-B wire, which is sunlight resistant, water resistant and resists interaction with the soil. Since the wire is so heavy duty, it can be challenging to strip off the insulating plastic covering, but there is a practical way to do it:

Step 1: About 3 inches down from the end, use a utility knife to carefully score around the wire casing.

Step 2: Use a pair of wire cutters to cut a notch on either side of the grounding wire in the middle of the casing.

Hook the New Wire Into Your Circuit

To make the connection, we first switched off the breaker for the circuit that we’re working with. Next, we drilled a hole through the banding joist beneath the front porch, while inside the crawlspace we drilled upwards through the bottom plate of the exterior wall directly beneath an existing outlet. We then dismantled that outlet and removed the box from the wall so we could pull the wire from outside and run it into the box. Finally, we reassembled the inside outlet and connected the new wire to its terminals. Any place the wire goes through a hole gets sealed with silicon caulk.

Because the circuit for the indoor outlet and outside outlet is 20 amps, we need to make sure our total amperage on this circuit will be less than that 20 amp rating or the circuit will keep shutting down.

What Type of Outlet Fixture Should You Use?

While a few local electric codes still allow plain weather-resistant outlets, all outside outlets really should be Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) fixtures. GFCI outlets add an extra layer of safety against electrocution in the event of a short circuit —which can occur outside and especially if the outlet is located where it can get wet. While there is no difference in connecting one outlet to an outside run of wire or to the wire box, you will need to buy a faceplate that will match a GFCI outlet. If the area where you plan to install the outlet tends to be wet, then you’ll also want to use an outlet that has a built-in weather protector.

Mounting the Outlet Box

In our example, we’ll mount our outlet about 3 inches up from the porch deck surface. To protect the wiring from being accidentally kicked or snagged, we decided to run the wire through a 6 inch long piece of schedule 40 PVC conduit connected to the bottom of the outlet box. For the conduit to work, we drilled a 7/8 inch diameter hole through the deck board. After that was done, we attached the outlet box to the post with some coated deck screws (uncoated screws will decay due to chemicals in the treated lumber).

Next, we threaded our UF-B wire up into the wiring box and used a pair of needle nose pliers to pre-bend the wire ends so they would slide right into place on the outlet terminals.

After that, we connected the wires to the outlet’s screws. The white or neutral wire connects to the silver screws (left side) on the outlet. The black or load wire connects to the gold screws (right side). The bare wire or ground connects to the green screw at the bottom.

Once the wires are connected, mount the outlet in the wiring box and secure it in place with screws.

After that, cover it with a water resistant foam gasket and then attach the weather proof cover and you should be all set. Now that you know how to install an outdoor outlet and have followed all the steps, it’s time to flip the breaker for the circuit back on and try out your lights!

Quick Summary: Outdoor Outlet Installation Cost

Generally, it will cost between $350 and $400 including labor and materials to install an outdoor outlet for a newer home. If the home is older and needs additional wiring or electrical panels installed, the average price ranges between $1,000 and $1,400. Cutting through and repairing drywall will add to the total cost.

Whether you’re looking to power electric landscaping tools, plug in holiday lights, install mood lighting for a patio or deck, or power decorative features, an outdoor outlet makes the task much easier.

Since an outdoor electrical outlet is susceptible to the elements, it needs to include weather protection in addition to the ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). The GFCI protects the outlet, as well as anything connected to it, if it comes into contact with water. For outlets powering items you regularly connect and disconnect, weather protection needs to be no more than a plastic cover that opens and closes over the outlet. If the outlet will be used to power items that remain plugged in indefinitely, such as decorative features, you want an in-use cover.

Cost varies mainly according to how difficult the installation is. The difficulty of installing an outdoor outlet depends greatly on the age of the home, the location of the outlet, your location and its average electrician rates, and whether you need to also install a new electrical box.

How Much Does Installing an Outdoor Outlet Cost?

Costs vary widely according to where you live, as electricians charge drastically rates in different parts of the country. Expect to pay, on average, between $75 and $150 per hour if you hire an electrician to install your outdoor outlet. The total cost will depend on how complex your job is. For example, if the electrician needs to install an electrical box, this takes more time and adds to the overall cost. If you need additional wiring or electrical panels, which is common for an older home that has fewer interior outlets, the average price ranges between $1,000 and $1,400. For the average newer home, though, you’re looking at around $350 for your installer’s labor, with the cost of the outlet itself averaging between $25 and $50.

Additional Cost Considerations

Since the main item determining the cost of installing an outdoor electrical outlet is the time required to complete the job, you need to look at the factors that might increase that install time.

• Age of the home: Older homes have fewer indoor outlets, which means they also have fewer available power sources for a new outdoor outlet. This raises the odds your electrician needs to install additional wiring or electrical panels, adding significantly to the time required to complete the job.
• Outlet location: If your outdoor outlet is installed in an area with existing wiring or access to an electrical box, it takes less time to install and reduces labor costs significantly. Of course, the opposite is also true.
• Electrical boxes: Most of the time, an outdoor outlet needs an electrical box, sometimes called a junction box. These significantly improve the safety of your outlet, as they help maintain a connection and prevent fires. Installing one adds to the overall time the job requires.
• Drywall: Your electrician may need to cut through the drywall to install the outlet. This, as well as repairing it, it may add to the overall price.

Hiring an Electrician

You want to protect yourself and your property by hiring a licensed, insured, professional electrician. Luckily, the Internet makes it easier than ever to research contractors before hiring one to complete your install.

First, make sure the electrician is licensed to work in your state. You can do this by checking the state’s labor department site or licensing board to ensure the electrician has an active license. Once you know that, check the Better Business Bureau to see whether there are complaints filed, as well reviewing as consumer rating sites. Next, make sure the electrician obtains the necessary permits to complete the job. Unlicensed electricians don’t have this ability; a lack of permits indicates he or she is unlicensed.

As far as insurance, you want an electrician with ample liability insurance, preferably at least $1 million. This protects you and your home if there’s an accident. Finally, always request quotes up front, preferably from at least three providers. This allows you to compare costs to ensure you get the best contractor at the best price.

If you have any other projects you’ve been putting off because you weren’t ready to hire an electrician, this may be a great time to take care of them. Bundling your projects may save you some money, particularly if the electrician includes a minimum trip or travel charge and you don’t expect the installation of your outlet to meet that minimum time requirement.

Last Updated: March 20th, 2019

Many garden and landscape projects require a 120 VAC circuit to power lighting and other electrical devices such as pumps for ponds. Adding electricity to your garden or landscape is a home improvement project that can be undertaken by most individuals with some basic knowledge of electricity.

The actual placement of an outlet within your landscaping project needs to be thought out carefully as they are difficult to relocate if you place it wrong the first time. Installing an outlet outdoors means purchasing the materials that were specifically designed for the application – weatherproof / outdoor.

Weatherproof utility boxes and outdoor receptacle covers , as shown in Figure 1, are a necessity if you do not want the circuit to trip every time it rains or when you start watering your garden.

Figure 1 – Outdoor outlet with weatherproof cover

Powering the circuit through a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) is mandatory for safety purposes.

It is best if you can install the circuit directly to the main distribution panel / load center, powered through a GFCI breaker. If that is impracticable, because of access, then the circuit can be powered from a GFCI outlet / receptacle. Note: Only one GFCI control device is required on any circuit. All electrical outlets / receptacles and devices wired from the GFCI are protected by that one device.

It should be noted that multiple GFCI protection devices on the same circuit will cause false tripping.

Outlets should never be placed horizontally, facing up or down, as water will penetrate the device and cause a short circuit. The proper position is vertical. The bottom of the outlet should be a minimum of 6” above the top of the ground in your garden, and that includes any mulch that you use as a ground dressing.

When determining the best placement for the outdoor electrical outlet, keep in mind that you will be doing your day-to-day gardening around it. Keep it away from the path that your lawnmower takes!

It is also wise to consider the electrical outlet placement as it relates to any sprinkler heads. If possible, situate the front of the outlet so that it will face away from the direct impact of sprinkler spray. Placing electrical outlets in area that may be inundated with shrubs is not a wise decision, as someday you will want to be able to plug and unplug electrical devices.

The same weatherproof outlet devices can be used on decks to provide power to lighting, barbeque accessories and other general electrical needs.

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Electrically-powered yard tools provide you with a way to get yard work done quickly and efficiently, while requiring less physical effort. The drawback to these tools is that they must be plugged into an electrical outlet in order to function, which can be an issue if you have an extremely large yard. You can solve this problem by installing a remote electrical outlet in your yard. Completing this project provides you with a source of power that doesn’t require you to drag long extension cords across your entire yard.

Get the utility lines buried in your yard marked so you don’t damage them while digging. You can do this by calling 811, which alerts your utilities to mark the lines at no cost to you.

Spray paint the ground to mark the path of the power line between the house and the location of the outlet. Begin the line near your home’s main electrical box, and avoid buried utility lines and immovable objects like trees when laying out the path. Keeping the path as straight as possible makes the installation process easier.

Dig a hole in the ground that is 6 inches wide and 18 inches deep where you’re installing the outlet.

Dig a trench along the spray-painted line between the house and the hole located where the outlet is being installed. Follow local building codes regarding the depth of the trench.

Pour 6 inches of gravel into the hole at the end of the trench. Tamp the gravel to compact it.

Cut a 3-foot-long post from a 4-inch-by-4-inch post with a circular saw. Wear safety goggles when cutting the post. Apply wood preservative to the end of the post where you made the cut to protect it from water damage.

Measure a length of electrical conduit to fit inside the trench and and cut it with a hacksaw. Follow your local building codes regarding the size and material for the conduit. Options include PVC pipe and rigid metal conduit. Lay the different sections of conduit onto the ground next to the trench. The end of the conduit near the house should be within 6 inches of the house, and the end at the outlet should extend about one-third of the way into the hole from the trench.

Connect a 90-degree elbow to the ends of the conduit sections near the house and at the hole for the outlet. The elbows are used to extend the ends of the conduit up out of the ground.

Assemble the conduit with the fittings required for the type of conduit you’re using. When attaching the sections with the elbows, position them with the elbows pointing straight up. Place the assembled conduit into the trench. Cover the end of the conduit inside the hole with tape to prevent concrete from falling inside it.

Mix a batch of concrete, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Fill the hole about halfway with the concrete. Place the post into the hole, with one side directly against the vertical conduit. Check the post with a level to ensure it is plumb, or vertically straight, on all sides and adjust if needed. Fill the rest of the hole with cement. Check the post for level and plumb again. Smooth the surface of the concrete with a trowel, and allow the concrete to set for the time specified by the manufacturer.

Remove the tape from the end of the conduit at the post. Feed an electrician’s fish tape through the conduit until it emerges on the other end. Attach an Underground Feeder cable to the fish tape, and pull it through the conduit by reeling in the fish tape.

Remove the knockout hole on the bottom of a metal outlet box. Screw a male adapter onto the hole, then slide the adapter over the end of the cable and the conduit. Place the outlet box against the post and screw it into position.

Cut away any excess cable — you only need enough to reach the top of the electrical box — and strip 2 inches of sheathing from the cable. Strip a half-inch of insulation from the black and white wires inside the cable.

Connect the cable to a ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet. Hook the black wire around the brass terminal screw on one side of the outlet, and tighten the screw. Connect the white wire to the sliver terminal screw underneath the black wire. Connect the ground wire to the ground screw on the bottom of the outlet. A GFCI outlet has a circuit-breaker built into the outlet to protect against electrical shorts caused by moisture seeping into the line.

Place the GFCI outlet into the outlet box and screw it into place with the mounting screws. Place the plastic cover over the outlet.

Backfill the trench. Hire an electrician to connect the circuit to your home’s main electrical box, which is required by most building codes for safety reasons. If the codes require that the electrician inspect the line, don’t backfill the trench until this is done.

An outdoor electrical outlet is a convenient feature to have in your home. It makes entertaining, yard work, and lighting up the outdoors much easier. It’s not difficult to do, but as with any project involving electricity, be very careful while working.

Step 1 – Disassemble the Interior Outlet

Decide where you want the electrical outlet to be located on the outside wall of the house. Look inside the house to see where the closest receptacle is. It is easiest to locate the new outlet directly on the other side of the wall from an existing interior outlet. Turn off the power to the interior outlet. Unscrew the cover of the outlet and remove it. Unscrew the two screws on the receptacle. Take the receptacle out of the box and disconnect all of the wires. To remove the electrical box from the wall, remove the mounting screws. Pull the box out and pull it off to the side. Push through a knockout space in the box for the new wiring. Look inside the wall to see if it is clear for drilling from the outside wall.

Step 2 – Drill the Opening

From the outside, drill a 1¼ inch hole that is 5/8 inch deep for the cable clamp to fit into. Now drill a ½ inch hold into the wall from the exterior. Affix a cable to the new electrical box. Then, run that cable through the box and into the wall space. Push the cable end through the knockout in the interior electrical box. Pull through at least one foot of cable past the box and leave it hanging there for now.

Step 3 – Mount the Outside Box

Mount the exterior electrical box to the outside of the house over the hole that was drilled. Pull the cable through the back of the box and put a cable clamp on it. Now caulk in the opening. Put the screws in the box and tighten them down. Now, caulk the outside of the box so no moisture gets between the box and the siding of the house.

Step 4 – Hook Up the Wires

Trim the cable coming out of the exterior box down to 4 inches. Strip away 3 inches of the wire covering. Then, strip off a ½ inch of the covering of the other wires. The black wire should be attached to the gold screw and the white wire attached to the silver screw. Ground the box by wrapping the grounding wire (the copper wire) to the grounding screw. Attach the other end of the grounding wire to the green screw. Put the outlet into the box, apply the gasket, and then put on the cover.

Step 5 – Reassemble the Inside Outlet

Take the new cable from the exterior box from the wall cavity and connect it to the interior box. Put the box back in place. Then, wire the inside wires in the same way. The black wire goes to the gold screw, and the white wire to the silver screw.

Step 6 – Turn on the Power

Now turn on the breaker to these outlets. Use a plug-in style electrical tester to test both outlets. Now test the automatic trip button on the exterior box. It should turn off and the tester should show it has no power. Push the reset button.

You now have outdoor power for plugging in patio lights, using electric tools, or running an extension cord to your holiday lights.

Tools and Supplies

Before installing your GFCI outdoor outlet, you will need the following tools and supplies:

Inductive voltage detector
Electrical cable(approved)
Surface mounted outdoor electrical outdoor outlet box
Outlet cover
GFCI
Provided clamps and screws
Electric drill and bits
Cable stripper
Utility knife
Long-nosed pliers
Wrench
Screwdriver
Twist-on connectors
Conduit

Follow these procedures for properly installing a GFCI outdoor outlet

1. Determine an existing outdoor outlet with adequate amperage on the inside of the exterior wall.
2. Turn off the power to the circuit at your main service panel. Use your inductive voltage detector to test to make sure the power is completely off.
3. Now determine the “exact spot” for your outdoor outlet scouting above, inside and outside the house. Measure the distance from the indoor outlet to your reference point, such as a windowsill, and mark the location of the indoor outlet on the exterior wall at a good site.
4. Start drilling your pilot hole from the inside of the house, and then complete the hole from the outside.
5. Cut a piece of electrical cable measuring so that it is at least 18 inches longer than the distance between the indoor receptacle and the hole to the outdoor outlet.
6. Fasten the cable to the inside of the outdoor outlet box using an internal cable clamp. Allow at least 9 inches of cable to emerge from the box. Strip about 8 inches of sheathing from the cable and 1/2 in. from the wire ends. Fasten your outdoor outlet box to the wall.
7. Thread any other cable used to power additional outlets through the outlet box using an internal cable clamp, and strip the sheathing and wire ends on those wires as well. Use a compression fitting to attach the conduit to the box and fasten the nut with your wrench.
8. Attach the wires, including your ground wire, to their corresponding screws on the the outdoor GFCI.
9. Attach both sets of wires if you are tapping off the outlet, then screw the receptacle into the outlet box.
10. Place your gasket, may be supplied, over your outlet box and then install the outlet cover.
11. Now go indoors and strip the new cable sheathing and wire ends. Disconnect your indoor receptacle’s wires and using the twist-on connectors, connect your indoor and outdoor wires to pigtails and attach your pigtails to the indoor receptacle.
12. Turn back on the power and test. Once you determine their is power being supplied through your working outlet, then replace your wallboard and your done.

A GCFI outlet, whether installed outdoors or inside, can offer additional protection against electrical shock. Always check with your inspector before installing to ensure understanding of any special codes or restrictions related to your particular area.

Over time, outdoor outlets may start to become unsafe. Spiders may build webs inside them. Water can leak inside the outlet, causing serious problems. That’s why exterior outlets need to have a cover attached to them that protect them from the elements. So if your outdoor outlets are starting to look like the one pictured here, read through our guide for how to replace an outdoor outlet cover.

Time Required

You’ll know that it’s time to replace an outlet cover if any parts of the cover are broken or worn. Or if you can see the insulating layer sticking out from underneath the cover, it needs to be replaced.

You’ll only need five to 10 minutes to replace an outlet cover, so it’s easy to replace several outlet covers within an hour.

Tools Required

Replacing an outdoor outlet cover only requires a couple of tools.

• Pliers
• Screwdriver with multiple bits
• Canned air

Savings

Replacing this cover is a simple job that you can do yourself. You don’t need to spend money on an electrician for this type of work. Even if you have no familiarity with working with electrical wiring, installing an outdoor outlet cover doesn’t require working with the wiring. An electrician probably would have to charge you for a full hour of work to do this type of job, which is a needless cost.

Now if the outlet is not working, if you have exposed or loose wiring, or if the outlet itself is hanging loose, you will want to hire this job out to a professional. Replacing wiring and fixing outlets are jobs only left to those who have experience to work safely in this type of environment.

If you just need to replace the outlet cover, you’ll want to pick the cover that matches the orientation of your outlet (horizontal or vertical) and the number of outlets you have (usually two, but sometimes four or more). Here are a few options to consider for outdoor outlet covers.

• Inexpensive: Hubbell-Bell Weatherproof Wallplate Cover

• Mid-range: Leviton Weather-Resistant Wallplate Cover

• Expensive: Taymac Clear Outdoor Receptacle Protector

Dealing With GFCI Outlets

Some outdoor outlets will be GFCI outlets (short for ground fault circuit interrupter). These outlets have reset buttons on them, as well as a light that indicates whether the outlet is working. These are more often found in bathrooms and kitchens, but you may have one mounted on your home. If so, you must pick an outlet cover that will work with GFCI, or it won’t fit properly.

An option for a mid-range GFCI outdoor cover is the Sigma Electric GFCI Cover.

Removing the Old Outlet Cover

Before beginning this process, you should go to your fuse box and turn off the power to the outlet, just in case.

With an old outlet cover, it usually will be held in place with a single screw in the middle between the outlets. (If you’re removing a GFCI outlet cover, it will have two screws, one on the right and one on the left.) Occasionally, some of these screws will have become damaged over time, so it’s good to have pliers on hand in case you need to pull the screw out.

Once the cover is removed, you’ll see the bare outlet inside the electrical box, as pictured above. Don’t remove any of these screws.

You can use canned air to clean out any dust or other debris around the outlet.

Installing the Insulating Layer

The outlet cover likely will ship with an insulating layer. Most insulating layers have cutouts that you’ll need to pop out for installation. Don’t forget to pop out the tiny hole for the screw in the middle of the insulating layer (or at the edges if you have screws on the right and left sides instead).

The insulating layer will fit around the outlet plugs, and it should fit tightly enough to sit in place without you having to hold it.

Installing the Cover

Now place the outlet cover over the outlet. It should completely cover the insulating layer while allowing the individual outlet plugs to be accessible.

This part can be a little tricky, as aligning the screw hole in the middle with the hole in the insulating layer and with the hole in the outlet itself is a little tough. Try putting the screw through the hole in the outlet cover first and then lining it up with the hole in the insulating cover and the outlet. Once you get the screw lined up with the threads, it should go on relatively easily. (Again, a GFCI cover will have screens on the left and right sides, not in the middle.)

Checking Alignment

Once you’re finished, you should see the individual covers for the outlet plugs resting flush against the outlet cover. If these individual covers are not tight against the outlet cover, or if you can see any of the insulating layer, the cover is not aligned properly. If things aren’t aligned properly, remove the cover and try again.

That’s it! The outlet covers are pretty inexpensive, and this DIY project is easy and fast. So play it safe and make sure your outdoor outlets are properly protected.

The National Electrical Code requires GFCI outlets in all new bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry areas, as well as all outdoor receptacles.

Tools and Supplies

Before installing your GFCI outdoor outlet, you will need the following tools and supplies:

Inductive voltage detector
Electrical cable(approved)
Surface mounted outdoor electrical outdoor outlet box
Outlet cover
GFCI
Provided clamps and screws
Electric drill and bits
Cable stripper
Utility knife
Long-nosed pliers
Wrench
Screwdriver
Twist-on connectors
Conduit

Follow these procedures for properly installing a GFCI outdoor outlet

1. Determine an existing outdoor outlet with adequate amperage on the inside of the exterior wall.
2. Turn off the power to the circuit at your main service panel. Use your inductive voltage detector to test to make sure the power is completely off.
3. Now determine the “exact spot” for your outdoor outlet scouting above, inside and outside the house. Measure the distance from the indoor outlet to your reference point, such as a windowsill, and mark the location of the indoor outlet on the exterior wall at a good site.
4. Start drilling your pilot hole from the inside of the house, and then complete the hole from the outside.
5. Cut a piece of electrical cable measuring so that it is at least 18 inches longer than the distance between the indoor receptacle and the hole to the outdoor outlet.
6. Fasten the cable to the inside of the outdoor outlet box using an internal cable clamp. Allow at least 9 inches of cable to emerge from the box. Strip about 8 inches of sheathing from the cable and 1/2 in. from the wire ends. Fasten your outdoor outlet box to the wall.
7. Thread any other cable used to power additional outlets through the outlet box using an internal cable clamp, and strip the sheathing and wire ends on those wires as well. Use a compression fitting to attach the conduit to the box and fasten the nut with your wrench.
8. Attach the wires, including your ground wire, to their corresponding screws on the the outdoor GFCI.
9. Attach both sets of wires if you are tapping off the outlet, then screw the receptacle into the outlet box.
10. Place your gasket, may be supplied, over your outlet box and then install the outlet cover.
11. Now go indoors and strip the new cable sheathing and wire ends. Disconnect your indoor receptacle’s wires and using the twist-on connectors, connect your indoor and outdoor wires to pigtails and attach your pigtails to the indoor receptacle.
12. Turn back on the power and test. Once you determine their is power being supplied through your working outlet, then replace your wallboard and your done.

A GCFI outlet, whether installed outdoors or inside, can offer additional protection against electrical shock. Always check with your inspector before installing to ensure understanding of any special codes or restrictions related to your particular area.

Adding an outdoor outlet can be a convenient addition for your backyard or near your driveway out front.

Being able to plug in things while entertaining on the back patio is one benefit.

You can power radios, lamps or cooking devices near your outdoor BBQ a lot more easily than running a long extension cord from your house, i.e. through a window.

A receptacle outdoors is also great for power tools. Whether you work outdoors on building projects with saws or drills, or you do yard maintenance with corded mowers, weed eaters and blowers, having easy access to power can make life easier.

And let’s not forget at Christmas time when putting up holiday lights. What a difference that makes when you can just plug the lights in right outside.

Installing an outdoor outlet isn’t too difficult as long as you keep things simple and do some basic planning.

You’ll also need a few key parts and a little skill or familiarity working with electrical wires. Follow the rules and take you time – you can have a safe and successful result.

Planning for an Outdoor Outlet

By far the easiest way to add a receptacle outside is to do so on the side of your house.

That way you can tie into an existing outlet on your home’s interior. Do a quick check of your exterior walls, and locate a working outlet at a location which would make sense for you to have outside.

For your materials, you can use a regular receptacle for outdoors. It does, however, have to be GFCI protected.

Obviously this is required since water and other dangerous situations can occur outside, so you want something to cut power quickly should something go wrong while working with a device plugged in out there. A GFCI plug can do that.

In addition, you must also install a weatherproof gasket and some kind of cover.

This helps keep out water, dirt, insects and anything else that might corrupt the outlet.

Also, pick up a standard electrical box to hold the exterior outlet. You easily use an exterior rating sealant to caulk an outdoor outlet to keep out moisture, dust and… other little things like spiders.

Finally, unless the box you’re tying into has a free, capped off cable, you’ll need to have a few feet of Romex electrical cable.

You can get this at a home center. You might get more cable than you need if you buy it pre-packaged. So, since it’s expensive, have someone cut off what you need from a longer roll.

Prepare the Wall for the Outdoor Outlet

After you’ve found a good location based on the interior outlet box, transfer the location to the outside wall.

Use some point of reference like a window or corner and measure it out.

At the spot, make a mark, then make another mark about 6″ in one direction.

You don’t want the boxes to be perfectly back-to-back since there may not be room given the width of the wall.

Now, place the new electrical box backwards on the wall, centered on your mark. Trace around it to make an outline for the hole you need to cut out.

Just ensure you’re not over a stud. You should be all right if you only went 6″ or so away from your first marking.

For a house with siding or boards, put the outdoor outlet wholly on a flat surface, not at an overlap or joint.

Next, cut your hole from the outside. Use a jig saw or reciprocating saw.

Just think, that will be the last time you have to use an extension cord outside!

If you’re on brick, use a drill with masonry bits and drill holes around the inside of your trace marks.

It will be hard work, but once you’re done you can punch out a hole using a hammer and chisel.

Cut your new cable to the necessary length. Strip wire ends and tie into your inside outlet.

Pull the other ends of the wires through your outside hole and connect them to your new outdoor outlet.

Connect power supply wire to the leads indicated as Line. Connect ground wires as well. When done carefully tuck wires into box.

Install Your New Outdoor Receptacle

With your hole in place, it’s time to cut the power to the circuit your indoor outlet is on.

Then, remove it’s outlet cover and disconnect the receptacle from the box. The box should have a knock-out in the back, which you need to remove.

Press through it with a big screwdriver.

To attach your box, you can either mortar the box in, or screw box flanges to outside of wall surface.

Be sure to use silicone caulking designed for outdoor use to seal all around the box. Smooth out the caulk with a moist finger or tool designed to do so.

Place the gasket and install the cover on top. Turn the power on after you’ve put the indoor socket back together.

For adding outdoor outlets away from your house, you’ll still need to tie into your home’s electrical system.

You can do so as described above, but will need to use cable rated for outdoor use, correct conduits and bury all wiring the appropriate distance underground.

Check with your local authorities for specific codes. Specialty boxes and metal or plastic tubing should be used for outdoor receptacles placed away from the house.

If you’ve installed an outdoor outlet for Christmas lights, you might ask Santa for a remote control for your outdoor outlet.

These nifty remotes will let you control anything plugged in out there from inside. Now, that’s convenience taken to another level!

Do you have a question about a GFCI outlet installation? You can consult with our in-office electrician in Mesa AZ free of charge. Voted best electrician Mesa AZ and having over 30 years of experience, he will answer all of your questions about installing GFCI outlets, wiring a GFCI outlet or replacing a GFCI outlet. Our in-office electricians in Mesa are available to assist you today, Tuesday, June 30th, 2020, between 8:00 AM and 5:00 PM. Give them a call today, you will be happy you did.

How To Install A New GFCI Outlet

Before getting started there are two important things to take into consideration.

First, what do you plan on using the outlet for? Having a reasonably good idea of what you are planning on plugging in will tell you how much power will be required. Knowing how much power you anticipate needing will determine if an existing circuit can be tapped into or if a new circuit will be required from your panel. A 15 amp circuit has 1800 total watts of power available and a 20 amp circuit has 2400 total watts of power available. Remember to account for the power demand of existing devices utilizing the same circuit if you are thinking about tapping into an existing circuit.

Second, will the outlet be used inside or outside? Exterior GFCI outlets will need weather proof covers in all cases and exterior rated electrical boxes are required if the box is surface mounted, opposed to being recessed in a wall.

How to Install a GFCI Outlet Outside With a Dedicated Circuit

Utilizing a dedicated circuit is the best method of installing an outside GFCI outlet because it completely separates the new exterior power from the existing interior power. The advantage is that if something outside becomes wet and trips the GFCI or the circuit breaker, it will not affect the outlets inside your home.

The easiest and most cost effective way to do this is to mount the outlet directly on the side of your circuit breaker box as shown in the image above. Outlets can be located up high or down low depending on your needs. It works great for Christmas lights, landscape lighting and watering time clocks.

A GFCI outlet (which stands for ground fault circuit interrupter) is a receptacle with its own built-in circuit breaker. It is intended to protect you from electric shock and your wiring and breaker panel from being “shorted out”.

Building codes require that you have a GFCI outlet in areas near water (e.g. in your kitchen, bathroom or garage.) You don’t need to install a GFCI outlet for all your outlets near water, just the first one in a series. This way the single GFCI can “trip” or shut off if one of the receptacles further down the line are shorted out.

Electrical basics are easy to understand, but working on electrical projects can be hazardous. You should always take the proper precautions – turn off the circuit you are working on and use tools with insulated handles. For complete, step-by-step instructions for this DIY project, watch this friendly and straightforward video tutorial.

Install a GFCI outlet properly

Click through to watch this video on easy2diy.com

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Need more outdoor lighting, but don’t have the plugs to provide electricity? You could resort to self-powered solar lights, or you could install a new outlet for outdoor lighting. Installing outdoor lighting is something most handymen and women can do on their own, even if there currently isn’t a source of electricity available in the desired location. Follow these steps to give yourself new outdoor lighting and outlet installations.

Plan Your Lighting Project

Before you can purchase the necessary tools and equipment for your job, you’ll need to plan your project. Map out the space where you wish to install the new lighting fixture. You’ll probably need to run a safe underground line to a distant location if an outlet doesn’t currently exist where you want the light. Purchase the right amount of 120-volt household current line to run from an existing outlet to where you need the light. You will need:

• Rough map of your deck or yard
• Locations of all available outdoor outlets
• Voltage/amp capacity of available outlets
• Measurement of how much wire you’ll need
• Number and types of light fixtures you wish to install
• Trowel or shovel for digging a trench
• Fundamental wiring skills
• Basic carpentry and electrical tools

Purchase plastic-shielded cable for outdoor use (underground feeder cable), digging tools, and basic electrical tools if you don’t already have them. Installing outdoor lighting is relatively simple, but you should still have at least a basic knowledge of how to wire a fixture.

Run the Wire

Once you map the route for the wire you’ll run underground (spray paint is a common method for wire mapping), dig a 12-inchdeep trench that connects your outdoor outlet to where you want the fixture. If you don’t have any available outdoor outlets, you can install one.

First, mark the location of your new outdoor outlet next to an existing electrical box. Make sure to tap into a circuit that will have enough capacity to handle your light fixtures. Go outside and drill a 3/4-inch hole in the siding of your home over the smaller hole.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the outlet, remove the receptacle from the electrical box, and unscrew the wires from the outlet. The box must be large enough to safely hold more wires. Drill through the wall (away from a stud) and siding for a new outlet location. You will need to run cable between the two outlets, wire the interior outlet, and wire the exterior outlet.

Don’t forget to protect your new outdoor outlet with a weatherproof box cover. Run your plastic shielded cable from the outlet to the location you want your exterior lighting, burying it in the trench.

Install Your Light

Build or purchase a light post to contain your fixture. Then, connect the light post or other fixture to the cable you ran using a basic electrical connection process. You may need help from an electrician if you’ve never connected a fixture to a cord. Mount your light fixture to the post based on the directions, and you’re done! Enjoy a well-lit outdoor area.

October 8, 2012 by Gil 5 Comments

Installing an outdoor ceiling fan isn’t a difficult job, but before attempting installation you should have experience with general home improvement projects and especially electrical wiring. If you’re uncomfortable or unfamiliar with performing a ceiling fan installation you may want to consider hiring a licensed electrician.

In this article we’ll provide step-by-step instructions on how to install an outdoor ceiling fan. But before we get started, let’s first make sure you’re installing the ceiling fan in the proper location outdoors.

If you’re doing the outdoor ceiling fan installation yourself, remember that outdoor ceiling fans are either wet-rated or damp-rated, which makes a big difference when choosing where to hang the fan. Wet-rated ceiling fans are meant for patios, porches, gazebos, or any outside applications that may not even have a covering. Damp-rated ceiling fans can also be installed outdoors, but they must have much less exposure to the elements. For instance, damp-rated ceiling fans are perfect for covered patios where direct rain cannot reach the fan, a screened-in sunroom or porch, a semi-covered gazebo, an outdoors shower or bathroom, and even indoor bathrooms and laundry rooms.

The list of outdoor ceiling fan applications goes on and on, as do the types and styles of ceiling fans to install. You can choose from a wide selection of wet-rated and damp-rated tropical, modern, traditional, decorative, small room, large room, and outdoor ceiling fans with lights, to name a few.

Outdoor Ceiling Fan Installation

1. Install the outlet boxes, electrical wiring, and base plate according to the National Electrical Code and your local codes for installing ceiling fans (this is the step where you may want to hire an electrician).
2. Assemble the fan blades according to the manufacturer’s directions. Remove and discard any motor blocks attached to the motor. You will typically want to assemble the blades to the mounting brackets first.
3. Prepare the fan motor assembly according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This will include prepping the base plate for a direct mount or connecting the down rods for a dropped mount.
4. Turn off the electricity. Then hang the ceiling fan motor assembly to the base plate and wire the fan to the electrical system.
5. Attach the blades to the motor and make sure to tighten all of the screws. Depending on your brand of outdoor ceiling fan, you may be prompted to perform this step earlier in the installation process (but usually not), so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s step-by-step instructions.
6. Connect the switch-housing to the fan. If you have a light kit, assemble and install it onto the switch-housing, as well as any glass light covers and the appropriate light bulbs.
7. Make sure the fan is completely assembled before turning the electricity back on and testing all of the connections to make sure they are functioning properly.

Trouble-Shooting

If your home is anything like ours, it’s littered with USB chargers, backup batteries, and other powered items. That said, wouldn’t it be easier if our wall outlets had USB ports instead of the traditional two-prong socket? Thankfully, USB-enabled power outlets are easy to find at big-box stores and online retailers like Amazon and Walmart. Upgrading an existing outlet is a straightforward job, but you may be apprehensive about working with electrical wiring. Here, we’ll walk you through the proper way to install a USB outlet.

Before we get started, however, an important warning: Regulations governing electrical work in the home vary based on the country and state. Before following the steps below, please check that you are authorized to perform electrical maintenance in your area and that you have the safety tools needed to do so.

Step 1: Select a USB-equipped power outlet

A couple of years ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find a power outlet with integrated USB ports, but now there are several available, including the TruePower and multi-functional Swidget. You could choose to source a cheap, unbranded outlet from eBay or Amazon, but we recommend picking up a model from a mainstream brand, such as Legrand or Leviton. You’ll find a range of configurations and colors available, and you can relax knowing that they’ve been built and tested for safety compliance.

Keep in mind, however, that USB-equipped outlets are much deeper than regular designs due to the additional electronics that have to be packed in. This being the case, you’ll need around 3 inches depth in the wall to install your new outlet. Once you’ve scouted a location that’s ripe for upgrade, be sure to check the size of the junction box behind the outlet before making your purchase.

For our guide, we selected the Legrand TM826USBWCCV Outlet, which supports two USB ports and two tamper-resistant power outlets. With two curious boys running around our testing home, we’re reassured that this model’s integrated shutters will prevent any unwanted objects from being inserted. You should be able to pick up this model for around $25.

Depending on your existing outlet, you may also need to pick up a wall plate to surround the sockets. The wall plate on our outlet has a horizontal bar between the outlets, which is where the new USB ports are going to be positioned. So, to accompany the USB-equipped outlet, we selected the Legrand Screwless Wall Plate, which matches in color and finish.

Step 2: Treat yourself to an outlet voltage tester

Alongside a screwdriver, the other tool we’d highly recommend for this job (or any involving electrical outlets) is a voltage tester. Obviously, we’ll need to switch off the power at the electrical panel before swapping the outlets, but to be absolutely certain that the outlet isn’t live, you should check it with a voltage tester.

Inexpensive devices like this Non-Contact Voltage Tester from Klein Tools provide visual and audible warnings when voltage is detected in an outlet. It’s available for around $20, and there’s an updated NCVT-3 model equipped with a flashlight that can be had for under $25.

Once you have the voltage tester to hand, test it on a socket that you know is live so you can be sure it’s working.

Step 3: Switch off the electricity

Once you’ve decided on the outlet you wish to replace, head to your home’s electrical panel. Switch off the power to the room/outlet you’re replacing or, to be sure no electricity is flowing, turn off the electricity completely.

Step 4: Remove the existing wall plate and outlet

Use your voltage tester to double check that the power has been cut, then carefully unscrew and remove the wall plate and outlet from the junction box behind.

Step 5: Note the existing wiring

Take a photo of the existing wiring (or sketch a quick diagram) so you know how to rewire the new outlet when fitted. In North American homes, expect to see Neutral (white), Hot (black), and Ground (bare copper) wires. Other continents have different codes, so be sure to check the existing connections. Better still — label the wires before you remove them.

Step 6: Remove the wires from the old outlet

Take your screwdriver and loosen the retaining screws holding the electrical wires in place. Keep in mind that they may be held in place with quick release clamps rather than screws. If so, find a small screwdriver or similar implement — a SIM tool will even do the job — and press the recessed release button to free the wires.

Step 7: Connect the USB-equipped socket

Reverse the steps to wire in your new electrical outlet. Then, ensure the Neutral, Hot/Live, and Ground wires are securely connected to the correct terminals.

Step 8: Secure the outlet and wall plate

The hard work is over! Secure the new outlet to the junction box. You can use the same screw holes that were used to fix the old outlet in place.

Now fix the wall plate over the outlet before standing back and admiring your handiwork.

Step 9: Power on and test

Head back to your circuit breaker and flip on the power to the outlet in question. Then, use your voltage tester to ensure the outlet is operating correctly before connecting and testing your USB devices.

For a few minutes of work and a $30 investment, you’ll be rewarded with a handy new charging point and a fresh, clean-looking replacement for those tired, aging outlets around your home. Now, if only there was a better way to bake wireless charging into your home.

Part 2

Many older homes were not provided with an electrical receptacle on the outside of the home. In other cases the receptacle is not in a location which is convenient for the homeowner.

Figure 2 – Double or two gang – duplex electrical outlet with weatherproof (in-use) cover

Adding an outdoor receptacle can take a little ingenuity, but if you survey the situation, with a little planning it is not an onerous project.

It is important that the outdoor electrical outlet that you install, is installed properly with the proper housings to protect it against the elements, see Figure 2.

As most outdoor electrical receptacles are used, at times, to power heavy amperage devices the best method of adding an outdoor receptacle to your home is with a direct connection to a new breaker in your electrical load center (distribution panel).

By connecting directly to your electrical load center (distribution panel) you can conveniently make the receptacle an exclusive 20 amp circuit for your outdoor power needs as shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1 – Dedicated 20 Amp outdoor electrical receptacle.

If running a wire directly from the electrical load center (distribution panel) presents a problem, you can pick-up power from another receptacle or possibly a light fixture or switch.

If the most convenient power source appears to be a light fixture or switch you should ensure that un-switched power is always available at the device. You don’t want to have to remember to turn on an indoor light switch in order to have power available at your outdoor electrical outlet.

To determine if you have un-switched power at a switch box or light fixture, remove the cover plate from the switch, or the fixture from the electrical box, and see how many wires are in the electrical box (not counting the ground). If there are only 2 wires (a black and a white) in the switch box or only a black and white wire in the light fixture box, then you do not have un-switched power available. There must be a minimum of three wires in the box, plus ground wires. There is an exception to this. If you are trying to pick-up power from a 3 or 4 way switch, there will be more than 3 wires in the electrical box housing the switch and none of them may be available for un-switched power.

Note: When choosing the location to tap power for your outdoor electrical receptacle, remember that you are taking power from a circuit that is already consuming power. If that circuit is almost at its capacity, adding a receptacle may cause the fuse or breaker to blow when you try and utilize the receptacle.

Basements and crawl spaces are one of the most common areas to pick-up power. Do not forget the attic, as it has potential for tapping into live power. A PVC conduit can be run through the soffit and into the attic.

As well, if you have siding, you may be able to hide an outdoor cable in one of the inside or outside trim pieces that runs up to the soffit and mount your new outdoor electrical receptacle next to the trim piece.

While many do-it-yourself sites suggest pulling power from an receptacle on an inner wall, this can be a very difficult process created by the need to fish a wire into the electrical box without damaging the walls. It is easier to split a live wire in the basement or crawl space area.

1. Identify a cable that has un-switched power, Figure 3.

Figure 3 – Electrical cable running along a floor joist

Continued.

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Outdoor furnaces can heat your home efficiently. Firewood is cheaper than natural gas or oil, and wood is a natural resource that can be replenished. As its name implies, outdoor furnaces are designed to be placed outside the house and supplement your home’s existing source of heat, thus lowering your heating costs. When choosing an outdoor furnace, it’s important to choose the right size.[source: Service Magic]

Follow these steps to learn how to install an outdoor furnace.

1. Make a concrete pad large enough to hold your furnace, with room for you to stand when loading the furnace. Make sure the pad is at least 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) deep. (You will have to make a mold to pour the concrete in.)
2. Dig a trench below the frost line from the furnace to the house, with a backhoe. The trench will prevent heat loss or freezing of the pipe, since the ground will be between 45 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit (7 and 13 degrees Celsius).
3. Place the furnace on the concrete pad.
4. Measure the distance from the house to the furnace. Take a PEX pipe (i.e. hot water pipe) of that length and put it in the trench. Place the same length 12/3 110V wire in the same length 4×6 PVC pipe. Put the PVC pipe into the trench too.
5. Mount a heat exchanger in the outlet plenum (ventilator) of the furnace. You should be able to buy one that fits your plenum. The heat exchanger should easily slide into the plenum. You can fasten it in place with an L -shaped bracket.
6. Connect one end of the PEX pipe to the furnace, and the heat exchanger to the hot water heater. Use another run of pipe and a pump to fasten the other end of the PEX pipe to the hot water heater.
7. Put the circuit breaker into the breaker box. Attach the 110V wire to the circuit breaker and the furnace. Install and connect the thermostat.
8. Fill the furnace with water. Start the fire.[source: Outdoor Wood Furnaces]

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Setting up a new electrical outlet from a sub panel is a handy DIY job that can bring power to a garage workshop or basement.

Electrical work can be intimidating, but if you do your research and follow some basic safety measures, you can learn to wire for lighting, outlets, and more. Wiring an electrical outlet is a standard process that any DIYer can handle, and can save you big bucks over hiring an electrician.

Before attempting any electrical work yourself, it’s best to get tutored by an electrician or someone who knows the proper way to handle wiring that is up to code. The tutorial below is from the YouTuber Blazingnailgun who has done hundreds of these installs and is great at simply explaining how the process is done, but you’ll always want to take the time to double check everything yourself.

Wiring from a sub panel will consist of a black wire (power), white wire (neutral), and copper wire (ground). The brass screw connectors on the outlet are for your black wires, the silver connectors are for your neutral wires, and the green screw is for your copper ground wire. The pigtail for the ground wire is a great tip as there is only one connector on the outlet. Wrapping the connectors in electrical tape is a final safety precaution and commonly done.

Take your time with any electrical work and if you have questions or concerns, hire a pro and learn how to do it better for next time.

When wiring additions to your outdoor lighting or other outdoor electrical power needs, keep in mind that these products require ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI)–protected receptacles. GFCI receptacles look similar to a typical outlet except that they have a third prong hole and “test” and “reset” buttons.

Their purpose is to protect people from accidental electrocution because these outlets are often near water sources. Garages, decks, patios, and other outdoor settings are the perfect candidates for GFCI receptacles, and local building codes often require them in these areas (in addition requiring them in kitchens and bathrooms).

GFCI receptacle has a reset button.

GFCIs monitor the amount of flow to a particular receptacle or circuit, detecting any leakage in current, and they are built to trip in 1/40th of a second in the event of a ground fault of 0.005 ampere. Even if your home was built before these code requirements were in effect, it is worth considering replacing standard outlets with GFCI receptacles in any of the above-mentioned areas.

Always remember to check that the power supply is turned off to the area you are working on. Use a circuit tester (also called a neon tester) to confirm that the circuit is dead. Not only will you be working with electricity, but you will also be working in an area that has access or exposure to water, and electricity and water do not mix!

Wiring a GFCI Receptacle

Wiring a GFCI receptacle is similar to wiring a standard receptacle except that the terminals are labeled “line” and “load.” See also How to Wire an Electrical Receptacle. Some things to keep in mind when working with a GFCI receptacle:

• A GFCI receptacle can be wired to protect a single location or to protect multiple locations by also interrupting power to all devices “downstream” of the outlet.

• To protect a single location, the incoming pair of black and white wires is attached to the “hot” and “white” (neutral) terminals on the “line” end.

• When protecting multiple-location wiring, the incoming wires are connected the same way as in a single-location setup except the outgoing pair of black and white wires attach to the “load” end.

• An alternative to using a GFCI receptacle is to install a GFCI-type circuit breaker in the service entrance panel or subpanel. However, it may not be convenient to re-set the breaker if the outlet is located far from the breaker box.

To make the job of installing a GFCI receptacle easier, consider purchasing a complete kit. These usually consist of a watertight box, the GFCI outlet, a gasket to seal the edges of the receptacle, and a “while-in-use” cover—a hinged plastic shield that flips up to admit a plug but covers the outlet when it is not in use, protecting it from moisture.

I’m running the outlet out 50 ft. from the house to power a pump in a water fountain. Is it safe to just bury the electrical wire?

4 réponses

You’ll need to be a little more specific in your question. In general, an outdoor outlet is installed pretty much like an indoor one, except you need to use a weatherproof box. Also, the electric code will require that it be a GFI recepticale(like you’d use in a bathroom or kitchen), unless the circuit breaker for the circuit provides ground fault protection.

ADDITIONAL INFO: They make special wire that can be buried and it needs to be buried at a depth prescribed by local & national codes. I’m usually ultra-conservative & use that underground-rated cable & give it additional protection by running it through PVC conduit. There will also be specific codes that cover how you take the cable into the ground & where it exits the ground; they’ll probably require conduit or some other protection of the wire at these locations. When it comes to electrical, the codes can be pretty detailed. LOL

Absolutely! If you can bore through the stud you will end up doing exactly what would have been done if the exterior outlet had been installed during initial construction. As you are tapping off an existing o/let the new outlet will be protected. Are you using a “weather proof” cover? The outside cut out should be done carefully so the box will sit solidly in the wall. The plastic “old work boxes” with the swing-out “ears” work quite well. Depending upon the situation you find in the wall, you may have to do some creative blocking to secure the box. It is worth some extra effort to do it well. There are several trim pieces or surrounds available – usually vinyl, sometimes wood – which might help dress up the exterior by giving a flat surface for the box and a uniform shape surrounding it to which the siding can be fitted.

Your question is too broad, as it depends on where you want to mount the outlet. If you mount it on the house, you can just use metal conduit attached to the house with a junction box for the feed from inside the house. If you are running it to a shed or something, you have the whole problem of getting power over to the outbuilding.

Not a lot of info. For a dedicated circuit, start at the breaker box, install a ground fault breaker, wire out to your weather-proof duplexes. If you just need one duplex, drill through the back of an existing box and wire out to a weather-proof ground fault duplex.

First, you must find out how many outlets (light outlets, receptacles, or combination thereof) are currently on this circuit, and what you plan to use the new receptacle for. If it is just a convenience outlet for small appliances, table lamps, or any other relatively light load, and assuming that we are working with a 15A circuit using #14 AWG wire, and if there is less than eleven (11) outlets on this circuit, you can add another receptacle.

Next you need to find out how the circuit is wired. If there is a live power source in the light outlet as well as a switched conductor to control the light, then you can use the common neutral and tap into the constant power source in the outlet box so you have a live receptacle whether the light is on or not. If you don’t have a constant power source there, and only the switched conductor controlling the light fixture, then the receptacle that you add will only be working when the light switch controlling that light is on. The latter scenario here is the most likely situation.

Now if these conditions permit, you next need to figure out how you are physically going to accomplish the addition of this exterior receptacle. Are you able to fish the wires inside the wall cavities to the location of the new receptacle for a flush-mount receptacle, or will you need to add a surface extension ring to the existing light outlet, facilitating some kind of surface mount system of conduit and outlet location?

With every little home electrical project that you might be thinking of tackling, there are always factors to consider before proceeding. That’s why I’m here – to identify all of those additional considerations and to help you decide what is the best way to tackle the project.

Don’t feel comfortable tacking this project yourself? If you decide the job is best left to an expert – click the following link to access a pool of experienced electrical contractors in your area: Can’t do it yourself? Get help from a qualified electrical contractor/

Part 2

There are a number of special rules that you must follow if you are planning on installing a 220VAC circuit for an outdoor air conditioner.

Note: An electrical permit may be required to do this work. Always check with your local building authority.

The basic configuration of the electrical circuit needed to power your outdoor air conditioner condenser requires that the power comes from a double pole circuit breaker in your home load center, goes to an air conditioner disconnect switch and from the disconnect switch to the condenser.

Note: Because this is a 220 VAC circuit you must have two vacant circuit breaker positions above one another.

Figure 1 – Air conditioner disconnect switch

Figure 2 – Liquid tight flexible conduit

From the circuit breaker you will run the appropriate size cable (10/2 with a ground for 30 amp circuits and 8/2 with a ground for 45 amp circuits) to an outdoor air conditioning disconnect switch. From the disconnect switch you run the wires to the air conditioner.

Note: The installation instruction manual for the air conditioner condenser and the name plate on the unit should identify the current requirement for that specific model air conditioner condenser.

Step 1:

Mount the air conditioner disconnect , as shown in Figure 1, on the outside wall, as close to the air conditioner condenser as is reasonable. Ensure that it is securely fastened to the wall using proper fastening hardware for the wall material.

Step 2:

The air conditioner disconnect is connected to the air conditioner condenser with liquid-tight flexible metallic conduit , as shown in Figure 2.

Note: For 10/2 (30 amp) use 1/2″ conduit and for 8/2 (45 amp) use 3/4″ conduit.

The conduit is mechanically connected to the disconnect and the condenser using the appropriate straight or 90° flexible metallic conduit fittings , as shown in Figure 3.

Add conduit clamps, as shown in Figure 4, one within 12” of the disconnect and another at the last point on the wall prior to the conduit heading towards the condenser.

Figure 3 – 90° conduit fitting

Figure 4 – Conduit clamp

Step 3:

Remove the sheath from a length of the cable so that you have the individual wires available to run from the disconnect, through the flexible conduit to the air conditioner condenser. The length of the wire should be about 18” longer than the conduit itself. Remember, you can always cut off the excess, you cannot add to a wire that is too short!

Step 4:

Connect the wires in the air conditioning condenser junction box.

The bare copper wire is the ground wire it needs to be connected to the green wire in the condenser junction box. This may be a lug or screw connection depending on the manufacturer. In either case the ground wire is connected to the metal frame of the air conditioner condenser.

The other 2 wires supply the 220 VAC to the condenser. The location and method of connection for these two wires will be described in the installation manual that came with the condenser.

Note: If you purchased either 10/2 or 8/2 cable you will have a white, black and copper wire in the cable sheath. The white wire will be used as a hot wire and for this reason you must tape the ends of the white plastic covering on the wire with black tape to signify that it is not a neutral wire. If you purchased either 10/3 or 8/3 cable you will have a white, black, red and copper wire in the cable sheath. Use the black, red and copper wire and discard the white wire. There is no need to apply black tape to the red wire as the color red indicates that it is a hot wire.

Step 5:

Connect the wires to the inside terminals or lugs in the disconnect. The bare copper wire will attach to a lug or screw that is connected to the frame of the disconnect. The other two wires will connect to lugs or screws that are identified as load . It does not matter which load wire goes to which lug or screw.

Continued.

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A Buyer’s Guide

Tired of running extension cords or power strips to plug in all of your appliances and electronics? It might be time to hire an electrician to install additional electric outlets. Aside from being unattractive, extension and power cords can present a fire hazard, particularly when used improperly. Overloaded outlets cause more than 5,000 house hires in the United States each year.

A professional electrician can also replace old outlets. You might want to replace old two-prong outlets with modern three-prone outlets. Or, if your outlets no longer hold plugs snugly, it’s time to replace them with new outlets.

Types of Electrical Outlets

There are two standard types of residential outlets: 15 amp and 20 amp. The number of amps you need depends on the number of amps in the circuit. Fifteen-amp outlets can be used on 20-amp circuits but not vice versa.

Most homes have a combination of both outlets, with the majority being 15 amp. The only reason to install a 20-amp outlet is if you plan to plug in a major appliance that requires extra power. Some appliances, including microwaves, require a 20-amp outlet.

Installation costs vary, ranging from just a couple hundred dollars to $1,500 or more, depending on the size of the door, the complexity of the the job and your geographic location. Be sure to find out if installation is included in the price you’re quoted before hiring anyone to do the job.

In addition to the number of amps, you’ll have to decide on the type of outlet. Options include:

• Standard duplex outlets, which are most common in U.S. homes.
• Ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacles, which prevent dangerous ground faults. These are the outlets with the reset button. GFCI outlets are required in bathrooms, wet areas of the kitchen, basements and outside.
• Tamper-resistant outlets that prevent small objects from being inserted. These are required in new construction and renovations to protect children from electric shock.
• Weather-resistant outlets for patios and decks.
• Rotating outlets that can accommodate two larger plugs at once (i.e. a hairdryer and a night light).

Cost to Install or Replace an Outlet

The price to install or replace an electrical outlet depends on the experience of the electrician, the cost of materials, local labor rates and the difficulty of the job.

Wiring a new outlet on an existing circuit starts at about $80 to $100 but could cost as much as $300. If a new circuit is required, budget at least $300 to $500. Replacing an outlet starts at about $20 to $50 and ranges up to $100.

Choosing an Electrician

Any type of electrical work is dangerous, and it requires strict adherence to local building codes. Because of that, the task of installing electrical outlets is best left to a professional. Here are some tips for finding a good one:

• Make sure the electrician is licensed. Ask to see a copy of his or her current license, or ask for the licensing number and check with your state’s labor department or licensing board to make sure the license is active.
• Do some background research on any electrician you’re considering. Ask for references and check them all. Check the electrical company’s rating with the Better Business Bureau.
• Make sure the electrician obtains the necessary permits. Unlicensed electricians can’t secure permits, so consider the lack of permits a major red flag.
• Make sure the electrician carries at least $1 million worth of liability insurance to protect your home (and bank account) in the event of an accident.
• Always get a quote upfront so that you’re not surprised when the bill comes. And it’s always a good idea to seek multiple quotes to compare prices.

Do You Need an Electrician Near You?

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